III. Firearm Information by Type

B. Revolvers

3. What to Look for in Buying a Revolver

by Kirk Hays (khays@sequent.com)

Well, here's a list of some things I look for when buying a used revolver. I collect S&W revolvers, so it is, somewhat, specific to S&W.

However, most of this applies to any revolver.

I've got 20 years experience buying used revolvers, and, yes, I've bought a dud or twenty over the years. Remember that it is rarely worthwhile to buy a damaged gun, thinking you'll get it fixed. It's cheaper to buy new than to buy damaged.

On the other hand, easily repaired damage can be used as a negotiating point.

Finally, don't be afraid to walk away - let someone else buy the bad ones.

Before you start, make sure the weapon is unloaded, and ask permission to dry-fire it. Observe all safety rules.

  1. Is the yoke bent?

    Look at the yoke (aka "crane") when the cylinder is in the closed position. The gap between the frame and the yolk should be very narrow, and the same width top to bottom.

    A bent yoke can be caused by a number of things, the most common of which is "flipping" the cylinder closed, as seen in the movies.

    A bent yolk can be fixed, but it is rarely worthwhile.

  2. Look at the hole in the frame through which the bolt extends. Is it burred or oversized?

    Again, can be fixed, is not usually worthwhile.

  3. Look at the topstrap above the forcing cone. Is it flame cut excessively?

    I regard flame cutting that is more than 2/3 the width of the topstrap as excessive.

  4. Look at the firing pin hole. Is it peened out?

    This is a minor repair if not too excessive, and not repaired before.

  5. Point the weapon in a safe direction. Cock the hammer, and, with your finger off the trigger, press forward on the hammer spur.

    If the hammer falls, put the gun down and walk away.

  6. Repeat the following for each chamber.
    1. Cock the gun using the hammer, slowly. Does the bolt lock up when the hammer goes to full cock?
    2. Is the cylinder gap excessive (take feeler gauges)? Is it the same for each chamber.
    3. Is there excessive slop fore-and-aft?
    4. Does the hammer move to the rear any further as the trigger is pulled?
    5. Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?
  7. Repeat six (6) while holding a thumb lightly against the cylinder.
  8. Repeat the following for each chamber.
    1. Cock the gun using the trigger, slowly. Does the bolt lock up before the hammer falls?
    2. Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?
  9. Repeat step eight (8) with the revolver inverted. This will get you strange looks, many times, but shows up problems that might otherwise be missed.
  10. Repeat step eight (8) with a thumb riding lightly on the cylinder.
  11. Is the revolver cylinder scored excessively between the bolt holes?
  12. Is the cylinder star damaged in any way? Pay particular attention to the cams the hand pushes on. Look at the hand for damage. Push the ejector rod as far back as it will go - did it bind, or is it bent? Are the star locator pins present and unbent/unbroken? Is the knurling on the ejector rod unblemished?
  13. If you are lucky enough to have a timing rod, which is a piece of precision-ground steel that will fit down the bore, check to be sure each chamber aligns with the bore, cocking the hammer to lock the cylinder with the bolt.
  14. Look at the sideplate screws. If burred, walk away unless you feel lucky.

    I generally ask, if the screws are burred, for the sideplate to be removed, but this is an entire subject area by itself...

  15. Run your thumb and forefinger down the barrel - you're looking for bumps and rings.
  16. Look down the bore. Use a borescope if you have it, a piece of white cloth or your thumbnail at the recoil plate, whatever you've got to get light in the bore. Be very suspicious if the bore is dirty, as a dirty bore can cover a multitude of sins. If it is dirty, ask to have it cleaned.

    Looks for pits, rust, rings, etc.

    Look at the forcing cone for splits and erosion.

  17. Examine the chambers for damage - flame cutting, bulges (particularly under the bolt holes), dents, corrosion.
  18. Examine the sights for damage - look for "square" with the rest of the gun.
  19. Examine the firing pin tip. A chipped one can be repaired, easily.
  20. Examine the finish, markings, etc. A non-even surface, rounded edges where they should be sharp, or washed out markings can be evidence of a refinished gun. Ask.
  21. I'm sure I've forgotten something, so feel free to contribute, everybody...