III. Firearm Information by Type

C. Semi-Automatic Pistols

2. Models and Manufacturers

q. Sig Sauer

1. Changing Triggers

My thanks to Bill Vojak and Laird P. Broadfield. Between them I got enough information to get the job done last night. I'll probably test fire the new configuration this weekend, but all seems well.

The new trigger makes a small but significant difference. As near as I can tell, it's just a thinner version of the original, without grooves. All other angles and sizes appear to be the same. It is a little more comfortable for my hand. YMMV.

Mr. Moderator: Perhaps this belongs in the archive? It may come up again and I probably won't save it forever.

The details (left, right, up and down are relative to normal grip):

Disclaimer:

This is what I remember doing. I haven't test fired the gun yet. I'm not a gunsmith, let alone a SIG armorer. Use the following instructions at your own risk. I'm not responsible if you screw up your gun. No warranties, express or implied. See your gunsmith if symptoms persist. Etc., etc., etc. ...

It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway: Nothing needs to be forced in this procedure, nor are any parts damaged or replaced. If you bend or break something, you screwed up. Be particularly careful of fine wire springs and such. SIG will likely charge you big bucks to replace them.

If you're not comfortable with tools and mechanical stuff let a gunsmith, preferably a SIG armorer, do this for you. For an expert the whole procedure should take less than five minutes.

Tools:

• Gunsmith's screwdriver to fit grip panel screws.
• Gunsmith's screwdriver to fit trigger pivot pin.
• Wood or soft plastic drift to fit take down lever/slide stop pin.
• Non-marring work surface.
• A little patience.
• Optional: Soft hammer to tap drift.

Vocabulary note:

I use slide stop pin and take down lever pin interchangeably. The terms refer to the same part.

Procedure:

1. REMOVE THE MAGAZINE AND MAKE SURE THE GUN IS UNLOADED.

2. Field strip gun as usual (need not separate barrel and recoil spring from slide). Take down lever is now pointing down.

3. Rotate takedown lever 180 degrees counter-clockwise, so it's pointing up instead of down.

4. Tap the right side of the slide stop pin (opposite end of take down lever) with a plastic drift. (I used a capped ball point pen and nylon hammer). The lever and pin come out to the left of the frame.

   NOTE: There's a spring on the left side that normally fits into detents in the left of the slide stop pin. It will have to be moved out of the way to completely remove the pin. This will take some fiddling, but requires no special tools. You have to position the right side of the pin and wiggle it appropriately. Don't try to drive it out once it's disengaged from the right side of the frame (you can't). Sorry, I can't describe it better than that.

5. Remove the slide stop block sliding up and forward. (At this point, mine practically fell out). Note the wire spring loosely attached to the left side of the block. This is the spring you had to move to withdraw the slide stop pin. It's also the slide release lever spring. The slide release lever will now be loose.

6. Remove the trigger pivot pin (the part that looks like a screw from the outside, but isn't one). It slides out of the frame to the right. This is also the slide release lever pivot pin. The lever will probably fall out at this point. It's easily replaced on reassembly.

7. Remove the right grip panel (two screws). Towards the top of the frame you'll see a thin wire spring. Note carefully how it's attached to the frame and actuator bar (you must replace it exactly). Then remove it. (Disconnect from actuator bar first, then from frame).

8. With the spring removed you can, barely, wiggle the actuator bar (still pinned to the trigger) so it will move forward and swing up and out of the frame. (No need to force, it will come freely -- just). Again, note how it's normally positioned first so you can put it back.

9. Swap triggers. (They slide off and on the actuator bar pivot pin).

10. Reassemble in reverse order.

    NOTE: The trigger pivot pin has two grooves in it that fit into slots in the slide stop block. There are two possible ways the pin will fit. Only one is correct. The slots must be facing diagonally down towards the front of the frame. Use a small screwdriver to adjust the pin as you replace the slide stop block. Tilting the gun on its left side will help keep the slide release lever out of the way while you do this. (Remember, it pivots on the same pin).

    NOTE: The take down lever pin has a cut out on its far right face that fits over the spring. You can then move the spring out of the way by twisting the lever. Why they didn't put an equivalent cutout on the inside right surface I don't know. It seems obvious and would make disassembly somewhat easier.

11. Test fire. If problems result, check the positioning of the actuator bar spring (under the right grip panel). If correcting that doesn't fix things, you're on your own. I advise a trip to your SIG armorer.

That's it. Good luck and thanks again to Bill and Laird. Once again, the internet came through.

FWIW, I have a couple of suggestions. I had the most difficultly with step 4. After fiddling with the take down lever and spring for a while, I figured out that if you pull gently on the take down lever while turning it counter-clockwise, the lever pushes the spring out of the way for you (similar to how the notch aids you in reassembly). This method also helps out in reassembly after the far side (right side) of the lever has passed the spring. This made it as easy as pie to remove and install. Secondly, after field stripping, the hammer remains cocked, and therefore prevents the slide stop block from coming out. It might be worth mentioning to decock the hammer before starting.