III. Firearm Information by
Type
F. Black Powder Firearms
2. Muzzle Loading Firearms
By Josh Grosse (jdg00@juts.ccc.amdahl.com)
What is a muzzleloader?
A black powder firearm which is loaded from the muzzle. A measured charge of powder is poured in,
followed by a bullet or shot payload. Once loaded, they act like any other firearm. Repeating firearms
have either multiple barrels or revolving cylinders. Percussion revolvers qualify as muzzleloading
firearms for the purposes of this FAQ.
What firing systems are available?
Flintlock
Reproduction rifles and pistols that use flintlocks are very popular with those who want the pleasure of the
historical experience. The hammer holds a piece of flint in its jaws. When the trigger is pulled, the
hammer falls and strikes a metal bar -- called a frizzen -- which sends sparks into the priming pan and
ignites the priming charge. The priming charge ignites the main charge in the chamber through the flash
hole.
Percussion
Percussion ignitions arrived on the market in the early 1800s, and were considered more reliable than
flintlocks. They work in similar fashion to primers in modern centerfire ammunition. The percussion cap
mounts on the end of a small tube that extends from the breech, called a nipple. When the trigger is
pulled, the hammer strikes the cap, which explodes, sending sparks through the nipple and into the main
charge of powder in the breech.
There are three common types of percussion cap systems:
The hammer is positioned to one side of the action, as it is with a flintlock.
The percussion cap is directly behind the breech, allowing a modern low-pull weight triggering system,
and a fast hammer for rapid lock time. These two things can improve accuracy. Lastly, the heavy trigger
and centered percussion cap often provide improved reliability compared with side hammer systems.
Each chamber has it’s own nipple and “in-line” percussion cap.
What bullets or shot get used in a muzzleloader?
Shot
Standard lead bird and buckshot are used. There are also barrels capable of handling steel loads for
waterfowl. Either modern wad columns with over shot wads, or over powder and over shot wads are
used..
Bullets
Rifling twist rates may dictate what you may fire accurately from your rifle. I’ve heard, “When selecting a
rifle, first choose your bullet, then choose your rifle.” Patched round balls takes the
slowest twists best (1:60”, 1:66”, 1:72”), and sabots take the fastest(1:28”). Some manufacturers offer a
choice of barrels, or may indicate what bullet designs and weights are the most effective choice.
Since the 1600s, the patched round ball has been a staple of North American muzzleloading rifles. A
lubricated cloth patch is placed over the muzzle, and an undersized round ball is then seated and rammed
down the barrel. Commonly, a ball undersized 0.010” is used. Some trial and error with different
diameters and different patch thickness may be needed, if your rifle manufacturer doesn’t provide specific
guidance.
In revolvers, a slightly oversized round ball is used. When rammed into the cylinder, a small amount of
lead shaving should appear on the cylinder face. A lubricant, often vegetable shortening, is then used on
top of the bullet, flush with the chamber.
These bullets are “bullet” shaped. They are effective at much longer ranges than patched round balls.
They are much heavier than round balls, and they have a much better coefficient of friction. Therefore,
there is more retained energy at all distances, and accuracy is enhanced.
Black powder conicals are typically one of two basic designs. Your rifle manufacturer may specify a
preferred bullet weight and shape.
The Minie is of French design, and dates from just before the U.S. Civil War. It is named for one of the
designers involved in development, though the name spoken in English makes it easy to remember its
shape. It is undersized, and loads very easily.
The Minie's hollow base causes it to expand when it is fired, so that it fills the bore.
Recently, I heard it suggested that a Minie conical might make for a good “follow-up” load when hunting
dangerous game, since they don’t need much, if any, force to ram down even a relatively dirty bore.
Therefore, reloading may be faster.
These are lubricated, bore-sized bullets. The name “Maxi” is often used just to differentiate the various
full-bore designs from the undersized Minie. These bullets are often used on large, dangerous game, since
the bullet weights are usually the heaviest available of any design in a given caliber.
A very high level of accuracy is possible in fast-twist rifles, using undersized bullets and plastic sabots.
Typically, heavy handgun bullets -- lead or jacketed -- are used. Recently, Barnes Bullets introduced a
sabotted copper bullet design in several weights for use in muzzleloaders; they sell the bullet series as
having consistant terminal expansion at a wide range of velocities. The product is marketed as
appropriate for medium to dangereous game.
What accessory tools and supplies are needed?
There are lots and lots of accessories available, and you can get bogged down buying them all. Don’t.
Instead, just start with the “required” set, and perhaps add a few more as the desire for convenience
arises.
It is assumed that a muzzleloader came with a ramrod (the revolvers have them physically attached) and a
cleaning jag. If not, place them on the “required” list.
Required:
Powder flask
You need something which can easily and safely fill a powder measure for each charge. If you use a
priming powder different than your main charge powder, you will need a second flask to hold the priming
charges.
Powder measure
There are 7,000 grains in a pound. Even so, black powder is often measured by volume. Pyrodex must
be.
Percussion caps
Similar to centerfire primers, these little copper cups fit snugly over the nipple. Not needed by flintlock
shooters, of course.
Powder
Choose a powder grade recommended by your firearm manufacturer, and NEVER, NEVER, NEVER
exceed the rated maximum charge. You could cause injury or death to yourself or bystanders if you
exceed the rated maximum.
If you are shooting a flintlock, you will likely experience improved reliability when using an FFFFg
powder for priming.
Bullets
Choose a bullet type based upon your requirements and your manufacturer’s recommendations.
Lubricated patches (for patched round ball shooting)
You can make your own, or purchase them. Commercial patches can even be acquired pre-lubed. If you
lubricate them yourself, you will find it less messy to pre-lubricate a set of patches and leave them in a
zip-locked plastic bag.
Wads and wad columns
Muzzleloading shotguns will need a bore-filling overshot wad to keep the shot in place, even if a modern
shotshell wad column is used.
Cleaning supplies (patches, solvents, lubricants)
Required not just at home, but with you at the range or in the field. These firearms get dirty quickly. A
muzzleloader fired for accuracy is at least swabbed with a patch after every shot.
A bag to hold all this stuff
The old North American term is a possibles bag. Yours can be made of fancy buckskin if you
like. Mine is one of those small and cheap fanny packs.
Almost Required
These aren’t mandatory, but they make the sport easier to manage. Some might put these in the Required
list, but it one can survive without them. It depends, I suppose, on the strength and dexterity of your
thumbs, and your discomfort threshold. Nevertheless, if you leave one of these behind, you can still
shoot.
Bullet starter
These little tools make it possible to get your bullet started in the muzzle without damage to the bullet or
your thumb. The first few inches are the toughest, too, as the bullet “takes” the rifling. These help reduce
the reloading effort expended, and make it go faster.
The starters usually have two ends; a “short starter” gets the bullet just below flush with the muzzle, and
the “long starter” gets it in to the point that the ramrod can easily take over.
Capper
These tools are percussion cap feeders and seaters. They let you seat a cap firmly, without fumbling
Decapper
You safe your percussion muzzleloader by removing the live cap. These tools work better than
fingernails for removing caps from the nipple.
Real nice to have
Premeasured cartridges
You can purchase commercial plastic cases sized to your caliber, and load a bullet, premeasured powder,
even a percussion cap. These speed reloads, since the bullet in cartridge can be easily started, and the
powder is pre-measured.
You can also use empty 35mm film canisters to hold premeasured loads, to speed reloading time.
Longer ramrod, or ramrod extension
These make cleaning go a lot easier if your firearm’s breech dissassembles for cleaning. Many folks have
a range rod, a longer ramrod with a cleaning jag attached, useful for a day at the
range.
Bullet puller
If your breech can’t be dissassembled, you may need one of these. Having one with you might save a
hunting trip.