III. Firearm Information by Type

F. Black Powder Firearms

2. Muzzle Loading Firearms

a. Rifles, muskets, and pistols

By Josh Grosse (jdg00@juts.ccc.amdahl.com)

Choosing a caliber

All sorts of calibers are available. In rifles, .54, .50, and .45 seem to have the greatest market share, and in pistols, .50, .45, .44. .41, .38, and .36 all seem readily available, though ammunition might be more difficult to come by in some of the pistol calibers. Some smoothbore muskets are available with very large bores, up in the 10-guage shotgun arena. For example, I’ve seen Brown Bess muskets in .75 caliber. You may have to cast your own ammunition, though.

When considering a caliber, first choose your bullet. You must pick a bullet weight and shape, Know if you will be plinking, competitive target shooting, or hunting.

If hunting, know the characteristics of your game and what the regulations are in your hunting area. Peruse a few loading tables (every firearm comes with some, but there are black powder loading books, too). Once you’ve picked a bullet and a caliber, then choose a rifle with a twist rate that is best suited to the bullet. The correct twist rate will vary with barrel length, with pistols having a faster twist than rifles for the same bullet. In rifles, patched balls work best at the slowest twist rates (1:60” or slower), conicals at a mid-range twist (1:48”, for example), and saboted bullets at the fastest rate (1:28”).

If you’re considering using sabots, be aware that the .50 and the .54 produce the same exact ballistics when shooting the same weight bullet with the same propellant charge.

How is it loaded and fired?

This assumes a cleaned and unloaded firearm taken from storage.

Percussion rifle
Visually inspect the nipple for no percussion cap. Drop ramrod down barrel, check height

Set to half cock, or set the safety specified by your manufacturer.

Run a set of dry patches down the muzzle to remove oil and grease left from the previous cleaning. When a patch comes back clean, run it down to the breech and leave it there with the ramrod in place

Put on eye and ear protection. Fire three or four percussion caps to burn any oil or grease that drained into the nipple and flash hole area. Withdraw the patch, inspect it for a dark or burned area. If the patch is still clean, withdraw and inspect the nipple and flash hole for obstrctions. Clear, and repeat.

Set to half cock, or set the firearm to safe, as specified by the manufacturer.

Set powder measure to desired grain volume. Load measure from flask. With muzzle pointing away from you, pour powder from measure into muzzle. Rap the barrel to settle the charge.

If using a patched bullet, center a lubricated patch over muzzle first. Place bullet on muzzle. If using a cast round ball, place on muzzle sprue up.

Use the short starter and set the bullet below flush. If using a patched ball, you may want to trim excess patching from the muzzle.

Use the long starter, and set the bullet several inches into the bore.

Seat the bullet with the ramrod. A patched round ball might be “bounced” down the barrel, but conicals and sabots should be continuously seated to avoid deforming the bullet nose. The bullet should be seated firmly on the powder, without crushing the powder, but with no air space. Once you have settled on a load, mark your ramrod height to ensure consistent loading and bullet seating.

When ready to shoot, place a percussion cap firmly on the nipple. The weapon may now be cocked and fired.

Flintlock rifle
Open frizzen, inspect pan, ensure clear. Drop ramrod down barrel, check height

Place hammer all the way down.

Run a set of dry patches down the muzzle to remove oil and grease left from the previous cleaning.

Inspect flash hole, ensure clear..

Set powder measure to desired grain volume. Load measure from flask. With muzzle pointing away from you, pour powder from measure into muzzle. Rap the barrel to settle the charge.

If using a patched bullet, center a lubricated patch over muzzle first. Place bullet on muzzle. If using a cast round ball, place on muzzle sprue up.

Use the short starter and set the bullet below flush. If using a patched ball, you may want to trim excess patching from the muzzle.

Use the long starter, and set the bullet several inches into the bore.

Seat the bullet with the ramrod. A patched round ball can be “bounced” down the barrel, but conicals and sabots should be continuously seated to avoid deforming the bullet nose. The bullet should be seated firmly on the powder, without crushing the powder, but with no air space. Once you have settled on a load, mark your ramrod height to ensure consistent loading and bullet seating.

When ready to shoot, load the priming pan with the recommended amount of FFFFg powder. The weapon may be cocked and fired.

How do I unload it? I mean, other than by firing it.

That depends on the firearm. Some allow their breeches to be dissasmbled, so that the charge may be pushed through the bore. Others may not be disassembled, and therefore would require a bullet puller be screwed into the bullet to withdraw it.

What if I don’t own a bullet puller, and I’ve put in a bullet with no powder?

If you don’t have an easy to remove breech plug, you can try poking a few grains of powder through the flash hole or nipple, and try firing again. Even a few grains of black powder has enough force to push the bullet out the bore.

What should I look at when “accurizing” my rifle?

First, clean the bore between shots. At least one moistened -- not soaking -- patch between shots will help. Some people use dry patches.

Second, use a bullet designed for the twist rate of your rifle.

Third, follow your manufacturers guidelines for bullet weights and sizes.

Fourth, try changing propellant loads. Maximum velocity does not necessarily mean smallest group size.

Fifth, with patched balls, adjust patch thickness or change lubricant, and see if that helps. If not, have your barrel slugged for actual land and groove diameter, and go with a custom ball size if required.

Sixth, try switching powders.