© Copyright 1993, 1995 by Shane C. Henry. Limited permission to reproduce for personal use granted.
Disclaimer: Neither the author, nor the author's organization, nor the distributor accepts responsibility for injuries or damages resulting from the following information. Some actions described below may be illegal in certain localities or states, and as such, they are not supported by the author nor any associations thereof. The reader should understand that he alone is responsible for his actions.
Foreword: If you are reading this guide, you know that crime can happen to you. Neither I nor anyone else need waste time documenting the prevalence of violent crime. My purpose here is to provide information, ideas, and perhaps some persuasive arguments, not to present a single, all- encompassing type of self-defense. Your job, as a reader, is to approach this document with an open mind; when you hit a concept that you don't agree with, define the "why" of your disagreement. Nothing says I'm absolutely right. I make no claims of being an "expert", only an inquisitive and moderately experienced practitioner willing to share my insights. This isn't a multiple choice quiz with one answer; there is more than one possible strategy or solution. But whatever you choose to do, think about your reasons. I don't expect anyone to agree 100% with what I have to say...but if it makes you think, I've done my job.
This isn't a "gun-only" document. I am personally a proponent of gun ownership for responsible citizens, but if you don't like, don't want, or can't have a firearm, I'm not going to berate you. There is still much valuable information to be garnered from this document. But the emphasis is on firearm defense. The reason for this is two-fold; first, there is plenty of good information available elsewhere on personal security without a firearm. The wealth of information makes it redundant to cover here more than briefly. I trust that you can uncover information about securing your house or dealing with international terrorists, and so the information here on those topics is presented only as an introduction to make you think about the topic. The other reason is that while there is much information on non-gun defense, there is very little on defense with a weapon, particularly with firearms, and what does exist is often incomplete or contradictory.
I hope, in this guide, to provide you with a consistent philosophy and strategy for dealing with crime, armed or unarmed. Again, I make no claims that the information is exhaustive, but it does at least touch on most topics dealing with defense. This guide is aimed at the novice, the non-defensive-trained gun owner, or as a refresher/reinforcer for a more experienced defensive gun owner. I have tried to keep the details at a level where the novice isn't confused, and to explain the terms completely, without patronizing a more advanced audience.
This is a "pro-self-defense" document, and for this I make no apologies. If you don't believe that you should use force, and perhaps even kill, if necessary, to defend yourself, please don't waste time reading this. Buy yourself a Nerf bat or a plastic flower, and hope that you don't ever become the target of a violent crime. I'm not going to spend a lot of time convincing you to believe as I do--I expect that if you are reading this, you already share the sentiment that your life is worth more than th at of your attacker--but I make no attempt to avoid displaying that sentiment. I've also tried to make the reading not too dry or pedantic. I make no promises that any piece of this information will absolutely save you--as Marc "Animal" MacYoung points out, "There ain't no guarantees in a fight,"--but I think it will equip most readers with enough information so they can, if they choose, become better able to defend themselves.
Good luck, and good reading.
Shane C. Henry
December 1995
Introduction
I. Attitude
II. The Basics
A. What kind of weapon should I select for self-defense?
B. Types of weapons
C. Responsibility in gun ownership
D. Use of lethal force
E. Types of firearms
F. Selection of caliber/ammunition
G. Purchasing the firearm
H. Accessories
III. Training
A. Basic gun training and handling
B. Know your gun
C. Mental preparation
D. Basic marksmanship
E. Defensive Training
F. Melee and "empty hand" defense
G. Armed melee defense
IV. Strategy and Tactics
A. General strategy
B. Cover and Concealment
C. Predator Types
D. Concealed carry
E. Defense in the home
F. Defense while traveling
G. Defense for the store owner
H. Defense against stalking
I. Defense in a riot/looter situation
J. Defense in hostage situation
V. Aftermath
A. If you capture your attacker
B. Altering/leaving the scene
C. When the police come
D. Legal consequences/Demanding legal counsel
E. Civil liability
F. Social consequences
G. What if you get shot
VI. Appendicies
Appendix A: A true story of "defense" with a fake firearm by Tom Faller
Appendix B: Dan's Pepper Spray Challenge by Dan Day
Appendix C: Jeff Cooper's Rules of Gun Safety
Appendix D: Suggested Reading
While laws may be enacted prohibiting this and restricting that, by definition, it is the habit of criminals to ignore these laws and perpetrate crimes. A law that prohibits stalking isn't much comfort to the victim who can't identify her stalker. Similarly, there is little comfort for the rape victim that her attacker might face longer sentances if she is unable to stop the rapist. The arguable deterrent value aside, laws are only words on paper, with no physical manifestation except for the actions of police and authorities who typically aren't around when a crime is committed and who aren't responsible for your personal safety in any case.
Anybody can be a victim...but being a victim is a choice; you don't have to acquiesce. You can fight back and defend yourself, though admittedly at risk to your tender hide. Some people will argue that this is a foolish attitude; that if you fight back, a criminal might hurt you. This line or reasoning ignores the fact that what criminals do is hurt their victims. Even when they don't perform physical injury, the theft of possessions is synonymous with the deprivation of the time required to purchase those possessions. Also, criminals aren't likely to acknowledge, nor abide by, the unspoken contract, "If you give me what you want, I won't hurt you." Police files are replete with instances where victims gave in and got a knife in the ribs or a bullet in the head.
The goal of this guide is not to convince you to purchase a firearm, or indeed, any weapon. It is, rather, intended to give you the information you need in order to make informed, judicious decisions about personal defense. After reading this, you may decide that you don't want a weapon; so long as you understand the consequences of your decision, no one has any right to argue with it. But you'll have made a decision, rather than default by indecision, and you'll know the risks. For some people, this might be undesirable, but the rational, intelligent person, will welcome the addition of more information and opinions.
The topic of self-defense could fill volume after volume with opinions, ideas, case studies, and so forth. This guide is intended to give the user a basic familiarity with self-defense, and specifically the tools of that act, particularly the firearm. Others may have differing ideas or opinions. This doesn't mean that either are wrong. The bottom line is that you have to select the opinions and the tactics that work best for you, and you are the best person to make that decision.
It is not my intention that you should do anything illegal. Quite the contrary, it should be stressed that it is in your best interests to avoid any illegal act, particularly since all actions will be questioned in a defensive shooting. In some areas, the very actions you may take to defend yourself effectively are illegal. For people who live in these areas, their choice may be to prepare the most effective defense legally permissable, and to work to change the law to something more rational.
"There's no such thing as a dangerous weapon; only dangerous men..."Robert A. Heinlein
While popular thought holds otherwise, the single most important aspect of self-defense is attitude. With it, a lone, unarmed defender might hope to defend himself against multiple armed attackers. Without it, the biggest, baddest .50 AE Desert Eagle with all the trimmings is of no use. In a defensive situation (that is, a situation in which someone is threatening you with violent physical harm) the attitude must be "It's him or me!"
But there is more to attitude than just saying to yourself, "If someone attacks me, I'll defend myself." One must cultivate a sense of awareness and presence, an aura that, when needed, tells an attacker, "If you mess with me you might win, but it won't be worth the piece of flesh that I will tear from your hide!" This has little to do with macho, chest-out- gut-in-get-the-hell-out-of-my-way-you-little-worm manner, and more to do with being aware of your surroundings and convincing yourself of your own abilities in defense. Indeed, walking around with a chip on your shoulder will cause you more trouble, but a polite demeanor in front of an attitude of determined self-preservation may keep you from harm. Violent criminals are often bullies who resort to physical bulk and weapons to subdue their targets, and when faced with stubborn opposition, will often retreat. This isn't to say that puffing your chest up will cause a mugger or rapist will leave you alone, but if you act, instead of reacting, you ta ke the initiative and you gain a measure of control over the situation, hopefully to the extent of causing the attackerers to seek a "softer" target.
Attitude is very simply the will to live, to persevere in the face of opposition. In order to persevere, you must be willing to defend, and while this doesn't mean becoming a bully or inconsiderate louse yourself, it doesn't call for half measures. Be polite, to the point of accepting verbal abuse--if nothing else, should circumstances lead to a "situation", witnesses will be able to testify that you did everything you could to defuse the situation--but when the time comes that blows are thrown or bullets start flying, your sole interest is in the preservation of your self, your family, and your acquaintances. (Note that there is a distinction between "social fighting" which is prevalent among certain segments of society, and combat, which is an all-out, maim and kill scenario. The terms "defensive situation" and "combat" refer to the latter.)
The topic of attitude will appear again and again, because it is the heart of self-defense, without which all martial arts are ballet and all weapons are dangerous toys in the hands of the unwilling and possibly incompetent. You don't "shoot to wound" (n or "shoot to kill") or "take prisoners" in a combat situation; if the attackers surrender, fine, but don't expect or plan on it--you want to drive them off, if possible, and incapacitate them if not. Your only interest is in your survival, and that of your associates, not in punishing, or being merciful, to your attackers. There is no chivalry in combat; once the gun clears the holster, it is a matter of survival, and prizes aren't awarded for fighting clean or giving the other guy a chance. He had his chance when he decided to put the drop on you. He isn't giving you any breaks, and you shouldn't do him any favors in return.
Keep the idea of attitude in mind while reading this document. Attitude is what allows a 40 pound wolverine to attack a 600 pound bear--or what allows a 120 pound woman to drive off a 250 pound rapist. A J-frame .38 Special doesn't hurt, either, but you'll find that it isn't absolutely necessary. The tool isn't the key. A skilled defender should be able to defend himself with whatever is at hand; dedicated weapons, like a gun or a club if possible, improvised weapons like a pool cue, hairbrush, or bare hands and feet if not. It is the attitude, as much as any other factor, that defines the defender's ability to survive. Cultivate it, and keep it in mind while reading.
Others claim that individual self-defense isn't necessary; we have police to do this job. Even if this were true, it isn't a very practial notion. Police officers are rarely around when a crime starts, and even if you have the ability to immediately contact the police, there is no guarantee that the police will arrive in time to stop the attack, or even protect you if they do show up. The theory behind the current fast-response 911 systems is that a victim will have "instant access" to police assistance --but even if you do have immediate access to a phone, the reality is that in major cities there are so many 911 calls, and so few responding officers that you can expect to wait dozens of minutes before response... and criminals are rarely thoughful enough to attack you while in reach of a telephone, or to permit you to draw your cell phone and dial up the police. Even if you are put on the top of the response queue, the police still have the delay of physical distance. They aren't going to jump straight through the phone, nor stop criminals by telekinesis, and if you are lucky and they can find you quickly, you can *at best* generally expect a five minute response, by which time the criminal can easily have stolen your car, kidnapped your child, beat en you senseless or shot you.
It is a common misconception that police are obligated to protect individuals; even if they had the man-power to provide individual protection to everyone under threat, they aren't required to do so, and in fact you cannot successfully bring suit for dama ges if they fail to protect you. This has been established in several court cases over the years, such as Riss V. the City of New York. (See Peter Kassler's "Police Have No Duty To Protect Individuals" for summaries of multiple cases in which courts hav e ruled that the police are not responsible for individual safety.)
These facts are not stated with the purpose of scaring the reader into purchasing a gun or other weapon; in all fairness it must be noted that neither a firearm nor any other weapon guarantees that the defender will be safe from harm. But it is an established fact that personal safety is a matter of personal responsibility, and depending on police to do that job for you is not only pragmatically foolish, it is also legally incorrect. Your local police chief or prosecutor may not want to admit it, but th ey can't protect you, 24 hours a day, nor are they legally obligated to do so.
If you decide to purchase a weapon, the first thing you need to do is analyze your needs, requirements, and limitations. There's no point in procuring a weapon that is unsuitable for your needs, or that is more powerful than you can reasonable handle. T he average person clearly does not need, nor can easily handle, a snub-nosed .44 Magnum. On the other hand, a .22 LR target pistol or .25 ACP "vest gun" is probably inadequate as a main home defensive gun. With respect to firearms, the best suggestion is to select the most powerful caliber that you can fire reliably.
You might, for instance, determine that you want a weapon to carry on your person, in which case you'll probably select a compact weapon, like a handgun or a telescoping baton. Or you might determine your needs to be for home defense, in which case a sho tgun might be well advised. Whatever they are, your needs are best determined by you, and before decide upon and procure a weapon, be certain that it meets the criteria of your situation.
If you already have a gun or other weapon, and don't wish to purchase another that might be more suitable, then you'll have to alter your tactics accordingly. Any weapon is generally better than no weapon, and while a scoped hunting rifle isn't the most desirable weapon for home defense, it will certainly discourage most predators. You are better off with a defense-specific weapon, but if the situation doesn't allow for such, or you are caught unprepared and must use what is at hand, then do so while un derstanding the limitations of your selection.
On the other hand, after reading this document, you may decide that you don't want a firearm. That is fine; some folks just don't like guns, and there are others aren't responsible enough to possess them. If you feel that you fall into one of the above categories then the best advice is to arm yourself with whatever weapon you feel most comfortable and hope for the best. But there is no practical reason than any adult responsible enough to operate a motor vehicle can't safely handle and possess a firearm. (Certain caveats exist; it may be impractical to safely keep a firearm in a home with someone who is clinically suicidal or suffers from other mental trauma, but in the vast majority of situations, including a household with children, there are enough products and safeguards to make firearms, when stored properly, statistically less dangerous than cleaning solutions or the bathtub.)
Occasionally, someone desires to have a replica weapon, or a real, but unloaded gun, in order to "scare off" attackers. This is an exceptionally bad idea. The person with the non-gun may choose to draw the gun prematurely, with the mindset that "It's not a real gun, so nobody can get hurt," escalating an otherwise manageable situation. Even worse, an attacker might later justify shooting by claiming that he was shooting in self-defense. Occasionally, someone gets the idea to load a weapon with blanks to avoid harming his attacker; this is an equally bad, if not worse, idea for the same reasons. If you aren't prepared to carry a real, loaded firearm, don't carry one, or something that looks like a gun, at all. See Appendix A for an anecdote about using a non-gun for defense.
Club, baton: The club or baton is, historically, the earliest of weapons. Even in our "civilized" days, it is the most ready and the least restricted, for any solid object that is light enough to be handled but heavy enough to inflict damage is suitable to use for defense. Clubs range from the PR-24 batons used by police or the collapsible batons like the ASP to the baseball bat or two-by-four. One good, but less than obvious baton is the C- or D-cell Maglite-type flashlights. One can carry these near ly anywhere, with the ostensible purpose of illumination, while being relatively well armed. When striking with an unlit flashlight, one should hold it just behind the head, striking with the cap end. If lit, hold it near the base and use the reflector end to flash the attacker in the eyes, dazzling him, then swing or thrust forward, inflicting lacerations with the reflector lip.
Whip, flail: The flail has a history in warfare, and has the advantage of being compact for its reach, but anyone who has casually handled a whip or chain knows that such weapons are difficult to control. One popular type of flail are nunchuku, or "nunchucks". They look impressive, but have very little practical use in the modern world. They were used by the Okinawans because they were a common agricultural implement (a flail for grinding rice) but they have no practical application today. These are best left for the movies. Still, a belt, or doubled rope with keys makes a decent improvised weapon.
Sprays: The most common sprays are Mace and Oleum-Capsicum "pepper" sprays. The pepper sprays are unquestionably more effective than Mace (Mace takes a few seconds to react) and are by far the most popular. Many of these sprays also incorporate a brilliant permanent dye to mark the attacker for later identification. Sprays are fine as far as they go; however, they don't always live up to their manufacturers' claims. (See "Dan's Pepper Spray Challenge" in Appendix B.) The effectiveness of the spray depends upon concentration, type of spray (streaming or fogging), and the ergonomics of the weapon. The dinky "keychain" models are difficult to manipulate--without a natural orientation, they can easily be turned toward the user in a stress situation--and don't have the range or duration to be reliable. The larger models, particularly those with a pistol-type grip, are easier to use and have greater duration, but must be stored in a large purse or bag of some kind. In any case, the effectiveness of sprays varies with the individual. Some people are barely fazed by them, while others defecate in their pants. Aggressors who are intoxicated have a noted resistance to sprays. Sprays are also very dependant on environmental factors; in rainy or humid setti ngs they may not be so effective, and wind will disperse the spray, particularly the fogging kind, perhaps even blowing it back into the defender. Some note that police carry these sprays, but the observation springs to mind that these same police also carry handguns and batons. In short, while sprays can be a valuable weapon in the arsenal of a defender, they are not to be relied upon as a sure thing. In sum, the effectiveness of sprays is highly variable.
Electric stunners: These aren't just glorified cattle prods, they develop high voltage discharges that are supposed to overload the nervous system. In reality, the effectiveness of these weapons is even more marginal than sprays, and few police departments issue them. They are defeated by thick clothing, mental state and distance. They are very unreliable weapons at best.
Knives: There is an old saying, "Never bring a knife to a gunfight." The knife, while enjoying a reputation in literature and history, is particularly undesirable as a defensive weapon. It has all the negative aspects of a firearm (potential lethality, vast unintelligable legal restrictions) without the positive aspect of ranged defense. A knife requires the defender to engage the aggressor(s) at close range, allowing similarly armed opponent an equal opportunity to wound the defender. Using a knife well also requires significant training which is not widely available. A knife that is really suitable for combat has a fixed blade of no less than 6" in blade length, like the Applegate-Fairbarn; one will find that legal and social restrictions on carrying such a knife in public are often greater than those on firearms. The smaller folding knives that can be opened with one hand, like the Spyderco and Benchmade brands can be used for defense but all knives work as stabbing or slashing weapons that cau se bleeding. Unless the wounds frighten an attacker away, gradual blood loss leading to unconsciousness is the knife's only ability, and this is not instantaneous, despite the depiction of knife attacks in the movies. The knife's real-world effect is to slow an opponent down rather than stopping him with one or two forceful hits. Using a knife for defense is really a desperate situation; if you have a choice, select a better weapon.
Firearm: A firearm is not a bulletproof shield; if a gun makes you feel ten feet tall and invincible, you are better off without it. It will get you into trouble you should have walked away from. But the firearm is the most efficient means of self-defense available, permitting a smaller and weaker defender to effectively neutralize the size and strength of a larger attacker, or multiple attackers, at long range and from behind cover. Against an attacker armed with a gun, a firearm is probably the only effective response, unless your attacker is foolish enough to come withing grappling range. Whereas a martial arts skill can take years to build to any degree of effectiveness, training to use a gun effectively may take only hours. And some people who purchase a gun for self-defense find shooting a pleasurable recreation they had not anticipated.
There are several obvious disadvantages to firearms, but these are often exaggerated by people who don't "like" guns. Some will point out instances where people were accidentally injured by a firearm, or quote statistics such as, "You are 43 times more likely to be injured by your own gun, or to injure an acquainance than you are to defend yourself." While it is true that firearms are dangerous if handled improperly, you are more likely to be injured in a car wreck or suffer any number of household related injuries than to be shot with your own weapon, and you can reduce this chance to negligible levels by practicing safe gun handling whenever you are around guns. Out of the 200 million or more civilian-owned firearms in this country, only a handful are ever involved in an accidental shooting, usually as the result of poor handling practices, and the number of accidental shootings has decreased steadily since the begining of the century even though the number of privately owned firearms has multiplied.
As for statistics "proving" than guns are more dangerous to you than to criminals, they are hotly debated with are equivalent statitics "proving" the converse. The previously mentioned 43:1 is addressed by Gary Kleck, in his book _Point_Blank_, where he demonstrates that more than a million Americans use a firearm in self-defense every year, most without firing a shot, saving many lives for each accidentally lost, by a factor possibly as large as 600 to 1.
It has been stated by certain feminists and gun control proponents that the gun industry has targeted women for sales by using scare tactics, and that women are better off to rely on police rather than using a firearm because they are more likely to hurt themselves than to use a weapon in self-defense. One Congresswoman even stated that, "Women are virgins when it comes to guns. They should stay that way." Aside from the fact that many women are not "virgins" when it comes to firearms, one wonders at the logic of so-called proponents of women's liberation claiming that, while women should in other areas strive for self-reliance, they should rely on the government to provide for their personal protection. The claims that women cannot effectively use firearms are repudiated by the many women who have used a firearm for self-defense, without harming themselves or bystanders in any way. As for scare tactics, while it is true that the gun manufacturers have published statistics t
hat demonstrate that women are more likely to be victim of violent crime and have made appeals based upon the woman's desire to protect herself and her family, the anti-gun lobby has certainly used exaggerated scare tactics to argue against gun ownership. To claim that firearms ca nnot be used for self-defense by a woman flies in the fact of facts and good sense, and for self-labeled "feminists" to imply that an otherwise intellegent and responsible independant woman is incapable of handling a firearm is preposterous. On whose side are these "feminists"? As this isn't a treatise on the fallacies of gun control, we'll stop here, simply noting that, if handled responsibily, a firearm is more dangerous to your attacker than to you, a belief shared by many attackers, according to sur veys of convicted felons.
Other drawbacks do exist. Possession of firearms is restricted in some areas, and personal carry of firearms even more so. Firearms, like most weapons, require a degree of proficiency, particularly handguns. Firearms also require considerable responsi bility. Finally, the firearm is truly a "lethal weapon"; that is, there is no way you can discharge a firearm at someone without a significant chance of killing or maiming them. (This is true with all weapons of consistent effectiveness, but particularly true with firearms.) The topic of firearms will be covered in considerably more detail later in this document, but suffice it to say, the firearm is the most effective personal weapon, but also the one requiring greatest responsibility, particularly in view of the perception of firearms in society today.
When ever you pick up a gun, remind yourself of these rules. Never violate them. If you find yourself violating them, set the gun down and walk away for a minute. If someone else is violating them, call them on it, and if they persist in their activity, walk away, taking anyone you care about with you. These rules should be as instinctive as "breath in, breath out," for any gun owner. In pursuit of this goal, the NRA as well as many local clubs and hunting organizations offer classes on gun safety, usually at a very inexpensive price. These are well worth the cost, even as a refresher for the experienced gun owner, and especially as an introduction to safe gun handling.
You will want to secure your arms when not in use. This may mean a gun safe; however, safes are slow to open and inconvenient from a defensive standpoint. For defensive use, the weapon must be available, meaning either you maintain physical control over the weapon at all times (carrying it on you) or invest in one or more of the safety devices on the market, ranging from trigger locks to bedside safes that open via an easily mastered but difficult to deduce pattern. Under no circumstances, does hiding the gun, storing the gun separate from the ammo, but readily available, or keeping the weapon in a loaded but unready state (i.e. an automatic with a loaded magazine but empty chamber) suffice. Children are quite clever and inquisitive; they will find hidden guns, climb to get those that are "out of reach", figure out ways to manipulate the gun into action, and so forth. With small children, the gun should be absolutely secured by a locking mechanism. With larger kids, it's a judgement call as to whether they can handle having a firearm "available" in case of dire need. In any case, children should learn about safe gun handling in a program appropriate to their maturity. The NRA's "Eddie Eagle" program has several stages, in which children are taught not to handle firearms without any of the ulterior anti-gun baggage of other programs. What it teaches is very simple; when you see a gun, "stop, don't touch, walk away, tell an adult." Once kids are old enough to handle firearms under direct supervisi on (this too is a judgement call) the parent should permit the child to handle the gun and, when ready, learn to shoot it in a safe, responsible manner. Permitting a child to handle firearms at a young age, to see them used in realistic, positive pursuits like target shooting, and to learn the method of operation of firearms dispells the aura surrounding guns that is projected by the media. They learn that a gun is a tool, and like a hammer or saw, should be handled carefully. Older occupants should learn gun safety, too, if nothing else.
A rifle is a long barreled, stocked weapon that is intended to be used at long range. Rifles for defensive use are usually semi-automatic, or lever-action, and are designed for combat, like the AR-15 or the FN-FAL. These guns lend themselves more to a riot-type situation than urban/ suburban home defense or personal defense, but for the rural home owner, those deep in bear country, or those who are without the benefit of available law enforcement they may have their place. Rifles are often described as offensive weapons, to be used at long range against a known attacker, whereas shotguns and handguns are more defensive, close-in weapons.
A shotgun externally resembles a rifle in that it has a long barrel and a stock, but it fires a large variety of projectiles, from birdshot and buckshot to slugs. Buckshot, #00 through #4 is a commonly used as a defensive load, though those in urban environments who are worried about neighbors may opt for a birdshot loading, which retains effectiveness close in while reducing penetration. Shotguns, like rifles, are bulky, but they are the most effective personal defensive weapons. Shotguns for defense are usually semi-automatic or pump action, but the side-by-side "coach guns" are a reasonably good choice, and even the old over-and-under bird killer is a devastating weapon which an intruder will not take lightly. A note about shotguns, however; some people like the fact that the racking of a pump action shotgun, or the snapping closure of a break-open shotgun makes a distinctive, threatening sound. These people argue that there is a deterrent value in this. Be this as it may, it also tells your intr uder, "Hey, I don't keep my gun fully loaded" and gives away all tactical surprise, not to mention the inherent risk of feed jam by manually working the action in a crisis. Unless you have some other reason for keeping a shotgun with a chamber empty, you are better off keeping chamber loaded and preserving the element of surprise. When the time comes, a verbal warning, "Get out!" should be sufficient. Why give your attacker any breaks? (The same holds true for an autoloading handgun...how many times have you racked the slide and had the bullet jam...in the dark...drowsy from sleep...under pressure?)
Handguns are the most common weapon for self-defense. Despite the relative ineffectiveness of even the most powerful handguns (when compared with a shotgun or high-powered rifle), they are often selected because their size and low bulk permit them to be stored and carried far more easily. Handguns for defense are usually classified as revolvers, either double action or double action only, and pistols, autoloader, or semi-automatics (sometimes miscalled "automatic") which come as single action, double ac tion, and double action only. Revolvers carry the ammo in a cylinder which contains several chambers, while an autoloader keeps its ammo in a magazine, typically inserted into the grip frame of the gun and feeding of ammo into the chamber is accomplished by a reciprocating action of the slide from recoil or exhaust of the previous firing.
The terms, single action (SA), double action (DA), and double action only (DAO) are often a cause for confusion, even by experienced gun handlers, as they have different meanings for revolvers and autoloaders, and so these will be defined in greater detail below.
A double action autoloader is a bit different. Like the DA revolver, the action of the trigger also cocks the hammer when it is down; however after the first shot, the action of the slide cocks the hammer, so that the gun then functions like a single action autoloader.
There are a few guns which defy the above classifications, like the squeeze-cocking H&K P7 or the "Safe Action" Glock pistols, but for the most part guns fall neatly into the categories, and the rest can be represented as one or more of the above. ( i.e. the Glock is essentially a single action pistol, etc.)
The selection of firearm should be based upon need; a defender might find need for two or more different types of weapons. One might select a shotgun for home defense, and a revolver for on-the-road or concealed carry. However, if the budget is tight, one may have to compromise. An option might be to select a snub-nosed "K-frame" revolver as a double-duty home defense/concealed carry gun.
Selection of a rifle for defense is based upon a very narrow need; defense at a distance. Shotguns are more general, but it is difficult to go wrong with any pump action or better quality autoloading shotgun on the market. Handguns are another story; there is such a wide variety of prices, features, and qualities, that it can be dizzying. The best advice is to do some research, rent some guns at a range and try different features in a controlled setting, and take a class to be exposed to the various types of firearms.
The caliber of a firearms relates to several factors involving how the ammunition performs. Although caliber is important, it is not critical and there are several other factors for a potential gun buyer to consider. With regard to ammunition, there is penetration and rated effectiveness. There are many effective calibers that are too powerful for some people to shoot for defense. Some types of ammo may be inappropriate in certain situations; shotgun slugs in an apartment, for instance. And some types of ammo are underpowered for effective defense. Still, good shot placement counts for more than super-premium ammo, and the differences between one type of ammo and another are often outweighed by the differences between one shooter and another. Below, the different factors in ammo selection are considered.
Rifle ammunition: As previously stated, the rifle chambered in centerfire calibers is not a particularly good defensive weapon, for home defense. A rifle chambered in a pistol caliber is more acceptable and may be a good alternative for someone who, for some reason, does not want or cannot use a handgun. However, the "rifle-caliber" rifles in chamberings like .308 or .223 provide far more range and penetration than the typical homeowner needs for home defense, with the possible exception of riot. Th e penetration from such calibers is such that it may pose a grave threat to others within several hundred feet, even through intervening walls. Still, if a rifle is selected for the purpose of self-defense, soft point, hollowpoint, or prefragmented ammo is strongly suggested, as it reduces penetration and increases the effectiveness of the round. Any caliber above .22 rimfire is generally potent enough for defense.
Shotgun ammunition: Shotgun ammunition comes in three basic types--slugs (basically, a big bullet), birdshot, and buckshot. Slugs are used primarily to in hunting or long-range (for a shotgun) shooting. Slugs suffer from the same overpenetration problem s as do rifle bullets. Sabot slugs are just slugs encased in a plastic sleeve or "discarding sabot". Birdshot is finely sized shot (like tiny ball bearings), ranging from the size of fine dust (#12) to fine gravel. This type of load delivers lethal ene rgy at close range but loses energy quickly, making it appealing for the apartment dweller concerned about overpenetration. #8 birdshot, for instance, is quite lethal out to 10 meters, but loses potency quickly after that. The third type of load is buck shot. These are larger shot designed to penetrate the hide of moderate to large wild animals at range, and so is quite effective on attackers. While #00 ("double ought") is often the selection of police and the recommendation of gun store clerks, #1 or #4 is a better general selection for both long range and close work.
The common defensive bores for shotguns are the .410, 20 gauge, and 12 gauge, although 28 and 16 gauge shotguns are sometimes pressed into service. The shotgun, in any gauge, is a devastating close quarters weapon, though it should be noted that the myth that one need only direct the gun in the general direction of the target is false. While the shot does spread or "pattern" as it travels, the spread is not great enough to permit indiscriminate aiming; at ranges at which the spread is notable, the penet ration has dropped off enough that the weapon is no longer effective. Chokes, constrictions in the barrel, are sometimes used to guide the pattern. Chokes range from cylinder (no constriction) to full (considerable constriction, resulting in a tighter p attern.) In general the pattern won't make that much difference at defensive ranges with the 12 and 20 gauge bores, but a full choke creates a more concentrated hit which is somewhat more likely to stop an aggressor. At apartment or home distances, most shot patterns will only expand to about the distance between two shirt buttons.
While there are "magnum" loads for the .410, 20 gauge, and 12 gauge (usually requiring a longer than normal chamber), it is often better to stick with the "standard" loads for reduced muzzle flash and recoil, particularly with the 12 gauge. At defensive distances, a solid hit with a load of #4 buckshot will almost certainly drop an intruder in his tracks, regardless of whether it is a magnum load or not.
Handgun ammunition: Handgun ammo is a topic subject to frequent and often emotional debate among defensive shooters. Because handguns are terribly underpowered when compared with any shotgun or rifle and because handguns are more difficult to shoot, even the slight advantages of one caliber or one load over another are perceived to be important. Some gun owners are great proponents of a particular caliber and will demean all other calibers in favor of their preference. This is particularly true of prop onents of the .45 ACP, the .357 Magnum, and the 10mm Auto. Some prefer the "light and fast" loadings, while others prefer slower, heavier bullets with greater momentum. While this can make for fascinating technical arguments, the truth is that any caliber and load that can consistently penetrate deep enough to cause incapacitating wounds is sufficient for defense; all else is a fiddling few percentage points of effectiveness. There is some argument as to what caliber is the minimum for defense, but it is widely accepted that anything below the .38 Special, or perhaps the .380 ACP, is an abandonment of stopping power for concealability or cost.
The term "stopping power" is often used in reference to the relative ability of a particular caliber and load to stop an assailant. This term is misleading for several reasons. For one, "stopping power" is not a quantity measured in units of power (like watts), but is rather a statistical value that would be more correctly referred to as "stopping potential". A second reason is that the typical measurement use to determine stopping potential is the "one-shot stop". Of course, if an attacker continues attacking, the defender shouldn't stop with one shot, but it also begs the question of the statistical reliability of the number--the statistics are culled either from reports of actual street shootings, often neglecting other factors, or from unrealistic tests on animals.
Finally, while the stopping power or stopping potential might represent the relative ability of the load, it is the placement of the bullet, controlled by the shooter, that determines just how effective the hit will be. A 10mm that misses the head isn't nearly as effective as a .380 in the chest, regardless of the relative stopping potentials. The difference in skill between one gun wielder and another is generally far greater than the differences in "stopping power" between one load and another. A buyer is better advised to select a weapon that meets his criteria, and then learn to shoot it well, rather than spend time agonizing over the fractional percentage points that one load has over another.
The common defensive handgun calibers include the .380 ACP, .38 Special, the .357 Magnum, the 9mm Parabellum (also known as the 9mm Luger), .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 10mm Auto, and the .44 Special. These are listed not because they are inclusive; there are other calibers that will suffice quite well, but these represent the most commonly available defensive calibers.
There is some overlap among the guns in these calibers and the ammunition noted above. The .38 Special is identical in diameter or caliber to the .357 Magnum but has a case length which is 0.1" shorter than the .357. It can be fired in a revolver chambered for the .357 Magnum. The same holds true for the .44 Special in a .44 Magnum, and the .32 Long in a .32 H&R Magnum. The reverse is not true; magnum ammunition will not fit or fire safely in guns chambered for the Specials. Also, one may not fire .22LRs in a .22 Magnum revolver, as the magnum cartridge has a larger outside diameter as well as being longer.
Rounds like the 9x21mm, the 7.63x25mm, the .38 Super, and so forth are effective calibers, but they are rarely found on dealer shelves, and are used mostly by competitive shooters who reload their own ammo. Calibers like the .25 ACP and the .22 Long Rifle, while perhaps better than no gun at all, cannot be relied upon to penetrate enough for stopping, and so are relegated to backup or deep concealment weapons. Because the defensive guns chambering these rounds are often cheap or simplistic, the most reliable type of ammo should be used, even at sacrifice to expansion and nominal stopping potential.
It is better to select a caliber that you can afford to practice with regularly. The .357 Magnum is widely recognised as being the "top stopper", but it is too powerful for many people to practice with frequently. .38 Special revolvers, 9mm and .45 ACP autoloaders all have proven records of defensive use. Their ammunition is available from military surplus or factories at reduced prices. The .40 S&W, the 10mm Auto, and the .44 Special are effective defensive calibers, but the ammo is less common, and therefore more expensive, and in the case of the latter two, firearms themselves may be difficult to locate. One caliber might be marginally superior to another in stopping potential, but more practice with less expensive ammo can more than make up the difference by improving shot placement.
For handguns, the hollowpoint bullet has become the leader in defensive ammunition. Early (1st generation) hollowpoint bullets were just lead slugs with a hole in them. They had problems feeding in autoloaders, didn't provide reliable expansion, and were not highly regarded. Newer (2nd generation) hollowpoints were designed out of softer materials, have smaller cavities to encourage feeding in autoloaders, and were somewhat more reliable at velocities above 1100 feet per second. The newest selection o f hollowpoints (3rd generation) are designed to be capable of expansion below the older thresholds by using a variety of features. For instance, the Federal Hydra-Shok has a post in the center of the hollow which keeps the cavity from becoming plugged. The ill-starred Black Talon, recently reintroduced as the SXT, used a combination of a hard jacket, soft core, and a sump drilled in the bottom of the cavity to release pressure and force expansion. Other designs, like the Federal Golden Sabre, the PMC Starfire, and the CCI Lawman/Gold Dot, make use of designs tailored to handgun velocities to assure performance.
There have been some claims that certain hollowpoints are "killer bullets", that they can "slice through police armor." The "armor-slicing" characteristics can be easily dismissed; the soft, expanding nature of these rounds actually makes them less likely to penetrate any kind of body armor, and they don't expand before striking the armor in any case. There are others who feel that hollowpoints do not belong in the hands of citizens who do not face life-or-death confrontations every day. They argue that police, who face violence more often, need these bullets to defend themselves, but that ordinary people don't need them at all. Such rationale has been used to pass laws in places like New Jersey, where possession of hollowpoint ammunition is illegal. Frankly, this implies that possession of these bullets is paramount to intent to kill. In reality, no handgun bullet is designed to kill and none can be expected to do so on demand. What hollowpoint bullets are designed to do is save lives.
This last statement bears elaboration. Hollowpoint bullets are designed to stop an attacker with the least number of shots fired. They are designed to transfer as much of the bullet's energy into impact and shock. Roundnose bullets, which may zip through tissue with minimal disruption may require the defender to shoot his attacker more times in order to get him to stop attacking. The attacker shot with roundnose bullets still bleeds, but he does not feel the same shocking, stopping impact that a hollowpoint bullet produces.
Why does this effect of hollowpoints save lives? First, the sooner an attacker is stopped in his attack, the less likely a defender is to be killed. If a shooting takes 15 seconds to stop an attacker, that could mean the attacker still has time to stab his victim to death or return fire with his own gun. Second, fewer bullets necessary to be fired, and the more of those which stay inside the attacker, present less hazard to bystanders. In an intense situation, not every bullet will hit the intended target, and of those that do, roundnosed bullets are more likely to travel through an attacker with enough energy left over to kill a bystander. Third, one or two hollowpoints used to stop an attack means an attacker with two to four holes to stop bleed ing and repair. Four or five roundnose bullets are likely to mean six to ten holes, each leaking blood out and air in. Hollowpoint bullets are more likely to result in a live attacker after surgery. This has been documented by several police departments who switched from standard roundnose lead ammo to higher- powered hollowpoints. Their results: fewer dead cops, fewer dead crooks, and fewer dead bystanders, including fellow cops.
It is your life on the line; police use these bullets because they are effective at stopping perpetrators, and you should too. Realize that any bullet can kill, and any time you point a gun at someone your intent is to stop, but the possibility of killing exists. Whether you are in one gunfight or twenty, you want the best chances that you can reasonably obtain. If you are concerned about liability from using "killer bullets" then select the same brand that the local police force uses. This way you can always point out that you were just using what the police consider best.
Some people reload ammunition; while this doesn't generally "save" money, given the capital investment and time spent reloading, it will let you shoot more ammo for the same cost. Reloads should not be used for defense unless absolutely necessary, for two very good reasons. First, while an experienced, conscientious reloader will rarely have a bad loading, it can and does happen far more often than with commercial loads. Unless you trust your reloads 100%, they shouldn't be used for defense. A second reason is one of liability; a lawyer might make an issue of the fact that you "created a special, deadly round designed to kill, rather than wound an attacker." This is drivel, of course, particularly since most reloaders use the same components and powder charges as do the ammo manufacturers. However, the recent "Black Rhino" hoax should adequately demonstrate that neither the news media nor the public at large understands the design and capabilities of various types of ammunition, and a sufficiently motivated prosecutor or liability lawyer might convince a jury to accept his twisted interpretation rather than the plain truth. Reloading is a good way to get more practice for your dollar, and it will let you load practice rounds that are identical to commercially available loads, but for defensive use, it is best to use factory loadings from reputable manufacturer. It is unlikely that you could develop a significantly more effective load in any case; modern hollowpoints have a velocity "window" outside of which the performance of the round drops, and you certainly aren't going to improve upon the reliability of commercial ammo.
Whatever you do, do not select a gun based upon media appeal. The high capacity autoloaders are popular on the big screen, but in reality that capacity is rarely used by the lone individual, and can be difficult for those with small or even moderately sized hands to operate. Name appeal is something to watch out for, too. With many guns, you are paying for the name in addition to the quality, while a lower priced gun from a reputable, but not as "brand name" a manufacturer might be just as suitable. The big name makers have had their problems in quality control in the last few years and have put out some duds, while the smaller hardworking makers have consistently improved their quality. Price is not a very good indicator of quality, particularly in handguns. Most good handguns range from $250 - $800, with good guns at all price points. It is more important to get information about the features of the gun or guns that you intend to buy than just relying on price as a guide.
For most people buying a firearm is a fairly major purchase. The investment of several hundred dollars is not one that is taken lightly, and so you want to be certain that you get a gun that is reliable, from a store and a manufacturer that will stand be hind their product. Some manufacturers are very conscientious about customer service and will go above and beyond the required in order to please a customer. Others, particularly some of the importers, are apathetic or even rude to customers. The only way to find out which is which is to listen to other gun owners, participate in forums where such information is available, or talk to the experts in the field. The problem with this is that there is a plethora of conflicting information from all sources mentioned above. Some gun owners become enthralled with a particular design and promote it above others, exaggerating the strengths and ignoring the weaknesses. Others will, from one bad experience, completely forego a manufacturer. The gun magazines might seem like a good place to get information, and indeed they are a good way to pick up the jargon, but with respect to firearms reviews, they too often tend to glaze over the sore points, or return a gun unreviewed rather than to give it a bad review. Gun magazines are, in large part, supported by the advertisements of major gun manufacturers and distributors who send them their guns to test, and so the results often end up like a Playboy centerfold; you get to see all of Miss Monthly's prime assets, but what you aren't told is that she snores in bed or blows milk out her nose at when she laughts. There are a few publications that present test information in a more objective fashion but you are still left waiting for them to cover the gun you want to buy.
A good source of information is a local, well-respected gunsmith. He can tell you of the problems he's seen in different brands of guns, what to look out for and what is really useful. Still, the purchase of a gun, like a car, is a somewhat chancey thing, so before you purchase a gun you want to make certain that the dealer will work with you to make right any problems with the gun.
Before you go to the gun store, you'll want to select a few models to look at so as not to fall victim to impulse buying. Be clear on what you need, set a budget for yourself, and know the brand names, calibers, and model numbers. (Most gun publications publish an annual "Guide to Guns" type magazine which will show you what is available. In addition, many gun collectors will have pricing guides that will outline the cost, features, and so forth.) When you get to the store, don't let the clerk or dealer push you around. This is a particular issue for women; although "Woman's Lib" has come a long way, even in the gun store, one sometimes encounters a clerk who knows that a woman *couldn't possibly* want a .357 Magnum. The same holds true for a novice man who doesn't know the jargon. If you get such an attitude, be polite, but firm. If you feel pressured to purchase something you don't want or need, leave and find another dealer. If the prices are higher than they ought to be, try haggling down if it's your style, but if that is ineffective, shop around and try to get a better deal. At this stage, even if you are interested in handling a particular model, your first words in the store should be, "Just looking."
When you pick up a gun to try it out, first remember to follow the Four Rules of gun handling. Check the chamber, don't point it at someone (point it at the floor, if necessary) and keep your finger off the trigger. Check the pointability of the gun; pick out a target, close your eyes, point it at the target, and then check the alignment of the sights. If you have a problem aligning the sights, the gun may not point well for you. You may also want to try out the trigger; if so, ask first, as some dealers are rather sensitive about this, and point it at the ground or some other barrier. Try a selection of guns, and if there is one in particular that you like, you might ask to see another of the same model if they have one on hand, to compare the trigger pull. If you are undecided or unsure, consider your purchase for a day or two, and then go back if you still want the gun.
In a nutshell, a firearm for defense should satisfy the following criteria:
Reliability: It should go without saying that the gun should fire every time one pulls the trigger on a loaded chamber. Most guns, even on the lower end of the scale, manage to do this, although every manufacturer puts out the occasional dog, or even a b ad design. It is important that once you select a gun, you train with it to ensure its reliability. Possessing a gun which can't be relied upon is almost worse than having no gun at all. Revolvers come in first here. The mechanism is simpler, and there is no problem with variances in ammo or grip. Some autoloaders, particularly the lightweight ones, sometimes suffer from "limp wristing", holding the gun too loosely, which damps out the reciprocating motion of the slide and results in a feed jam. Some auto loaders, particularly straight-blowback guns, like most .380's, are very finicky about the ammo you use. You should fire 100 or more rounds of the defensive ammo you intend to use through your gun to ensure reliability, accuracy, and so forth. T his is particularly true with an autoloader. On the other hand, autoloaders can stand more abuse; the mechanism of a revolver is more delicate, exposed to dust and dirt, and with extensive use will eventually get "out of time". This isn't a great concern with a defensive gun that is fired a couple of hundred times a month at the range, but with a revolver bought used, it may be a hidden problem.
Functionality: This is different than reliability, because functionality is a subjective measure of how well the shooter likes and can use the gun. Some complain of the complexity of autoloaders, and particularly the "wonder-nines" with slide release, safety, decockers, magazine release, etc. You should be able to manipulate the gun you select in the dark and under stress. This ability evolves with how much you practice with the gun; more practice reduces concerns about greater complexity. The revolver takes points here, too, as most revolvers have only two controls; the trigger and the cylinder release. Some double action only (DAO) and the Glock "Safe Action" autoloaders come close to that level of simplicity, but one must still learn how to clear a jam or misfire. With a revolver, there is little question of clearing jams; if a revolver jams up on you, it will likely require the services of a gunsmith. A revolver won't jam up from a misfire though; if the round doesn't go off, you pull the trigg er and advance to the next chamber. Misfires are fairly uncommon with good quality ammo, but revolvers get points, particularly with novices, for simplicity.
Reasonable Power: Despite the fact that handgun ammo suffers in comparison with the stopping power of rifle ammunition, the handgun is a much lighter package, and is held less securely than a long arm. Above a certain level of power in a handgun, the amount of blast affects accuracy and the recoil delays a followup shot considerably. An S&W .44 Magnum with a 2.5" barrel is probably overkill. Still, there is a lower limit to defensive rounds; anything below a .38 Special is probably not enough to ensure reliable stopping even with good accuracy. A .380 is a compromise; more power than pocket pistols in .25 or .32 but (typically) smaller than a .38 snub, but unless small size is demanded, as in a concealed carry situation, a .38 Special is as usually as low as one wishes to go. In revolvers, the calibers which offer stopping power, controllability and availability are the .38 Spl., the .357 Magnum, and the .44 Spl. In semi-auto pistols, the best choices are the 9mm, the .40 S&W, and the .45 ACP. Other calibers are available, but these are the best first choices.
Accuracy: The gun rags often report how "Gun A groups 2.5 inches with Brand X ammo, and Gun B groups 3.25 inches with Brand Y ammo." Setting aside the lack of scientific or statistical rigor in the measurements made in gun reviews the truth is that in a defensive situation, which is likely to occur at close range, in the dark, against a moving target, average group size obtained at 25 yards in bright sunlight isn't going to mean a whole lot, and frankly the defender will be doing well to hit the target in the torso. The defender may not have time or opportunity to adopt a two-handed "Weaver stance" or even to look at his gun and align the sights. Practical accuracy is a measure of how well the shooter can shoot the gun under a variety of realistic conditions. Much of this has to do with training and most folks can become reasonably accurate with any weapon. Few will be capable of as much practical accuracy as the intrinsic "bench rest" accuracy of the gun. Still, there are some characteristics of a handgun that improve practical accuracy.
For instance, how good are the sights? Are they rudimentary "notch sights", or are they of usable size and geometry? How well does the gun "point" naturally? How does the gun feel? Is the grip too large or too small? Does the frame cut into your hand somewhere? Is the trigger way too heavy or creepy? The more comfortable the gun is to handle, the more naturally accurate it will be for you. Some of these characteristics can be altered; grip size can be changed by fitting aftermarket grips to the gun. This is usually a very efficient move; the right grips usually makes a big change in pointability and typically costs under $20.
Fitting your needs is the most important criteria, and this fact is often lost in the confusion of calibers and grips and finishes. Once you are in a gun store, it is easy to forget which features you need in a defensive firearm and which are unimportant or in the way. If you anticipate home defense only and have decided on a shotgun, don't get sidetracked looking at revolvers. If you are anticipating concealed carry, ignore the big .45's and .44 Magnums. If you are just learning to shoot, the blast a nd recoil from a snub-nosed revolver or compact automatic may be a hinderance rather than a help.
Holsters: Holsters are only used for handguns, though there are scabbards for rifles. The primary purpose for a holster is to secure the weapon and to protect clothing. While some people choose to carry a handgun in the pocket or waistband, and this method will work in a pinch, if you have any intentions of carrying a handgun for any length of time it pays to invest in a holster, both in terms of protecting the gun and in comfort. Holsters range from the very inexpensive (around $10) to as much as you want to spend (for custom holsters), and while price isn't a specific indicator, holsters do tend to get more comfortable and easier to use as the price goes up.
Holsters come in two basic materials: leathers of various kinds (cowhide, horsehide, sharkskin) and synthetic materials like nylon. The leather holsters are usually more expensive and require more care, but for some applications leather is preferable to synthetic holsters, as leather can be molded to the exact type of gun (elminating the need for retention straps) and is more comfortable to wear. The nylon holsters generally come in "one-size-fits-all" for any general gun type, which while convenient for the user who may holster several different weapons in the same holster, they are usually not as sturdy (for keeping the weapon from flopping around during movement) and require a retention strap to hold the gun. Synthetics definitely have the edge when it comes to durability and resistance to abuse; while some types of leather are close to maintenance- free and are quite durable, you won't see anyone wadding up a leather holster and throwing it in the trunk, to come out as good as new.
The term retention strap has been mentioned several times, and it is significant enough a feature on a holster to be worthy of mention: the retention strap is simply a strap that goes across the gun in some manner to retain the gun while it is holstered. On inexpensive or low-threat holsters, this strap is usually some kind of snap or loop that must be released as a separate motion from unholstering the gun. On most duty and concealed carry holsters, though, the retention strap is actually two straps th at meet and are arranged so that one can snap open the strap in the same motion as drawing the gun.
There are three basic classifications of holsters:
Low-threat holsters are intended to keep the gun secure, but not to provide a particularly fast draw. These are fine for occasional carry or plinking, in low-threat situations. There's no need to splurge unless you really want a leather holster; for the se applications, the synthetics are just as good. Flap holsters (that is, a holster where the flap covers most of the grip of the gun that would otherwise be exposed) are good for carry in forests and fields, where rain is a threat and branches can snag the gun. In this situation, if you need a gun, your awareness will give you time to open the holster without need of a fast-draw.
Duty, garrison, or high-threat holsters are holsters which are worn on the belt and which are designed for situations in which a quick draw might be necessary. Depending on your application, you may go with an inexpensive but professional synthetic rig, or with a more expensive leather rig. (Police usually wear leather holsters and belts, while private security tend to go more with the synthetics...which is more of an indication of the purchasing practices of an open-budget government organization compa red to a private, profit-making company rather than the relative quality of one material versus the other.)
Most duty holsters, even expensive leather ones, have a retention strap so as to thwart attempts by an attacker to take the wearer's gun. We'll talk about handgun retention later, but bear in mind that retention straps do more than simply secure the gun against unintended dislodgement.
Duty holsters are good for police and security, as they are fairly secure, easy to draw from, and tend to keep the weapon from flopping around too much, but they aren't very good for concealment, as they usually ride fairly low on the hip. For concealment, a third type of holster is required--a especially dedicated concealment holster. Concealment holsters come in a wide variety of styles and configurations, which will be discussed more thoroughly in the Concealment section later on, but suffice it to s ay that in selecting a concealed carry holster, cost is a secondary issue. Concealment holsters are generally selected to be worn on a daily basis, under clothing, near the skin, and usually on a narrow dress or jeans belt rather than a thick and wide duty-style belt. Most folks who carry concealed on a regular basis agree that leather is superior to synthetics when it comes to a "regular" concealment holster, though the "fanny pack" style holsters and some others are exempt from this. Selection of a concealment holster is also something of a personal choice; what works for one person may not work for another. Again, this will be covered in greater detail later, but be aware that concealment holsters are generally more expensive than other types, because of the more demanding requirements of that type of holster.
Of course, you need not purchase a holster at all, if the weapon is purely a home defense gun, or if you intend to carry in the car, bag, briefcase, etc. Be aware, though, that if you keep the holster near, but away from your body, you must be certain th at whatever you are carrying the gun in is secure (i.e. don't lay it down in the daycare while picking up your kid) and it will be a slow draw. Awareness will help to negate the "need for speed" in a crisis, but all things being equal, it is often better to have the gun on the person, though this isn't always possible or convenient.
Aftermarket Grips: While some firearms come with excellent grips (the side panels on the "grip" of the gun) others have grips that are poorly suited to defensive shooting, are the wrong size for a particular shooter, or are too slick for some users. Fortunately, aftermarket grips can be had for most handguns. These are made of wood, rubber, or nylon and other synthetics. Custom grips can be had in various styles like exotic hardwoods or mother-of-pearl, among other materials, but for defensive guns the first three are best. Rubber grips make the gun easier to maintain a hold on, and many are designed to absorb some recoil as well, with excellent results. However, rubber grips can sometimes be too spongy, and tend to "print" (show up) on clothing in concealment applications. For those who like synthetic grips but find rubber too spongy, grips are made of nylon, derlin, and other synthetics which are durable and may provide a better grip shape than standard grips and don't print. Grips range from about $20 for rubber or synthetic grips, to $50 for plain hardwood grips. (Custom wood grips can be had for as much as you care to spend, with proportional amounts of decoration or gaudiness.) Even the polymer framed Glock and HK USP can be improved by the addition of rubber slip-on grips. While aftermarket grips are a matter of personal preference, many guns can be improved measurably by the addition of aftermarket grips and some manufacturers have started putting them on their out-of-box guns. Adding af termarket grips is usually the most effective and cheapest improvement one can make to a gun.
Aftermarket Stocks (for longarms): Aftermarket stocks can be had for many weapons. The synthetics are popular because of their low maintenance requirements, and can be had in flat, neutral colors that won't reflect light well. One feature that is popular is a pistol grip. While one often sees actors in movies firing a pistol-gripped rifle or shotgun one-handed, the real purpose of the pistol grip is two-fold; to make a magazine loaded weapon easier to handle while loading and unloading, and to permit the shooter to maintain a tighter, more natural grip on the gun in close range shooting. The pistol grip also arguably makes the gun easier to retain in a snatch situation. Another feature that is even more poorly displayed in movies and less useful over all is the folding stock. While a folding stock does allow the stock to be folded up, reducing bulk, firing the weapon with the stock folded pretty much precludes the use of sights; on shotguns, this is detrimental to accuracy, and on rifles, this makes the gun next to useless at any range. Furthermore, folded stock weapons, by their nature, tend to be a little more delicate and don't absorb recoil nearly as well as a fixed stock weapon. The stocks are often hard to manipulate and may pinch the user. Movie tactics aside, there is really very little use for a folding stock on any weapon, save for the person who wishes to store the weapon with the stock folded in a limited space. For most users, there is no everyday application. Shotguns that have a pistol grip and no buttstock fall into the same catagory, except that there is no buttstock to fold out. Such weapons can be used by specially trained people who require a low-bulk weapon, but they are difficult to use, not nearly as accurate as a full-stock weapon, and essentially useless for any normal defensive application.
Sights: Good sights are important for accurate shooting, and while some guns, particularly the small caliber "pocket pistols" and derringers hardly need sights, most guns should be well equipped with a good pair of sights. Fortunately, most modern firearms come with at least decent sights, but sometimes a gun owner wants an upgrade.
Fixed sights are just that; fixed. On autoloaders, this usually means that the rear sight can be drifted "for windage", i.e. to shift the point of aim to the left or right, but moving the point of aim up or down requires the services of a gunsmith. Adjustable sights, while permitting the user to easily change the point of aim, tend to be more delicate, more bulky, and more expensive. Defensive pistols are usually seen to come with fixed sights, but for most guns aftermarket adjustable sights can be had for a moderate price. A variety of "sighting systems" are available; while in the past standard "black" sights were common, the current trend is toward "bracketed" or "three-dot" sights that show up better in low light and are easier to align in combat. Also popular are tritium-filled luminescent "night sights" which glow. While considerably more expensive than non-luminescent sights, they are effective for low-light shooting, but some shooters worry about the visibility issue of having several glowing dots on the gun.
Red-dot sights and laser sights are currently very popular with the competition crowd, and seem to find their way into many movies, but contrary to what you might see and hear, they aren't particularly desirable for defensive shooting. Red-dot sights tend to be fairly delicate, and because they force the shooter to look through a tube, they limit vision to a tunnel, which is undesirable in a defensive situation, not to mention that they are too bulky to fit in a standard holster and usually deny the use of the regular iron sights in case the red-dot sight fails. Laser sights are even worse; again, delicate (though the modern LED lasers are much more durable than the gas tube lasers of a few years previous), the battery tends to go out with little or no warning, but worst of all, in any kind of dust, smoke, or fog, a red beam will point straight back to you, making you an extremely visible target. Plus, laser sights typically only work at dusk or darker; fortunately, most modern laser sights, and nearly all that are promoted for carry weapons, are small and do not preclude the use of iron sights. Still, they are mostly expensive toys, and the average user would be better advised to spend the $200+ with which he might purchase a laser instead upon the equivalent purchase cost of ammunition for training.
One other "sight"-type accessory that is somewhat popular is an underbarrel flashlight. This is, again, a popular one with Hollywood directors, but isn't as useful as it seems, and as pointed out by one firearm novice, "I wouldn't want to have a light shining which makes a perfect target of me!" Exactly! The use of a flashlight in a combat scenario will be discussed later, but as for underbarrel flashlights, they are, like lasers, an expensive toy which, if used improperly (or perhaps at all) will result in a reduction of tactical capabilities. Plus, using the light as a flashlight, but not intending to shoot, violates Rule II.
Rifle and shotgun sights are something of a different matter. Most standard rifle and shotgun sights are pretty poor (either being intended as an aftersight on a scoped gun or for bird hunting, in the case of a shotgun). The best recommendation is the "ghost ring" aperture sight which are like peep sights but large, permitting a fairly wide field of view.
Magazines and Speedloaders: It is often quoted by many people that the average gunfight lasts less than three shots. While the truth of this statement cannot be denied, it is also true that it is a statistic, and you are not. It is desirable to have extra ammo available, in case you run out, and having the ammo in a spare magazine or a speedloader makes it that much faster to reload.
A magazine is a device which holds and feed the ammunition into the chamber of an autoloading weapon. (In contrast, a "clip" simply holds the ammunition but has no feeding device, and the clip, ammo, and all, is inserted into the fixed magazine of a fire arm, as in the Broomhandle Mauser.) Magazines vary in price, and because of the recent high-capacity magazine manufacturing ban, high capacity magazines tend to be quite expensive, making it a definite consideration when purchasing a gun. While magazines can be had from aftermarket suppliers, it is often better to purchase factory magazines unless the quality of the aftermarket magazines is assured, as some (not all) aftermarket manufactures use inferior materials.
A speedloader is a device that allows a shooter to load the five or six chambers of a revolver at once, rather than one or two at a time. Speedloaders are somewhat bulky, but they do speed reloading of the gun considerably, with practice. Speedloaders t end to run at about $6-$10.
For some guns, particularly the small backup guns, speedloaders or extra magazines may not be necessary, or even available. For larger, defensive caliber guns, however, they are recommended in most circumstances.
Compensators: The compensator (a port or ports cut into the barrel to bleed off gas in order to reduce felt recoil) can be valuable on some guns, particularly if the shooter is arthritic or has low hand strength, but they do increase muzzle blast and flash, as well as causing a moderate reduction in bullet velocity. Some manufacturers now offer compensators as a standard feature on their guns; if you purchase a gun and decided to have a compensator installed, have it done by a competent smith, preferably one who specializes in that type of work.
Trigger Job: The trigger job is the mainstay of the competition crowd, as it reduces trigger pull (and may clean up a rough or crunchy trigger), but most defensive guns have adequate, if not exceptional triggers. If you decided to have a trigger job done on a defensive gun, select a competent smith (again, preferably one who specializes in such jobs--there are several mail-order gunsmith "houses" that will do this with guaranteed quality) and check the gun thoroughly (both by inspection and by firing) to be certain that the gun is reliable and safe to carry. A bad trigger job can damage the sear, causing the gun to fail, or worse, causing it to go off spontaneously. A carry gun doesn't need a 4 lb. competition trigger.
Extended safety, extended magazine release, extended slide stop, etc: In general, for a defensive gun you'll want to avoid any accessory labeled with the term "extended". This usually means that it is designed for competition use, and often, because of t he longer moment arm on the part, it is more subceptible to breaking (particularly with the slide stop). Also, these parts tend to complicate and bulk up the weapon; an extended magazine release, for instance, makes it easy to drop a magazine accidentally. There is some argument for an ambidextrous safety, and possibly for some other features, but most are largely unnecessary and overpriced.
Seriously, gun training isn't just a trip to the range, or a four hour safety and handling course, or even a $1000 "Expert" course at Thunder Ranch. While professional, structured training is recommended (in accordance with interest and budget) this is just an opportunity to pick up technique which will be enforced by later practice. Training is an ongoing event; a shooter should always be conscious of gun safety. Grip and trigger technique are psychomotor skills that must be exercised or they will degenerate. While standards of training vary, there is hardly such a thing as too much; the more you practice, the better you'll be, so it pays to put in as must time and money as you reasonably can, particularly when learning to shoot, but even after you've mastered the skills, you'll need to refresh with a trip to the range at least once a month, combined with regular dry-fire practice when you can't make it to the range.
Although previously stated, it is so important that it bears saying again: Know the Four Rules of Safe Gun Handling by heart, and live by them. Every time you pick up a gun, go over them in your mind. The rules are:
The same is true if you carry a gun on your person; try to carry the same gun, carry it in the same place, and in the same condition all of the time. Sometimes this isn't feasible; for instance, a gun owner who carries a concealed weapon may carry a gun in a IWB holster while in business attire, but in a fanny pack in more casual situations. In such a case, practice drawing from each holster, and be aware which one you have on. When you practice, use your carry gun and draw from your carry holster in a variety of positions (sitting, standing facing toward the target, facing away from the target, etc.)
You should be able to operate the safety mechanism by instinct. The only reason you'll draw the gun in public is to use it, so disengaging the safety (if the gun has a manual safety) should be an automatic part of drawing the weapon; when you draw it for other purposes, you'll leave the safety engaged, of course.
This kind of preparation is difficult to cultivate; it isn't something learned by a linear process. Martial artists and boxers sometimes cultivate this as part of their "attitude training". Basically, envision, in your mind, practical defensive situations. Impose real, practical limits, and do the first thing that comes to mind, running through the scenario in "real-time". Once you've completed the scenario analyze what you did; think about what you should have done; what was rash or wrongheaded. Thi nk about the players; if there is more than one attacker, did you leave a blind spot where he could hit you? Were you justified in shooting?
This kind of "fantasy" can be very useful in analyzing your attitudes and actions, and if used constructively, can help you revise your tactics. If you approach it honestly, you'll find that there are considerable limitations to your ability; unlike in action movies, the bad guys won't come one at a time, and you'll be lucky to handle three attackers.
This also means learning the laws and examining a few cases involving self-defense and liability; these will probably alter your attitude, too. If you had any visions of rushing in to stop a crime in progress or shooting an attacker and riding into the sunset, this will put a bucket of dirty mop water on your ideas. Even in a justified shooting you can expect to suffer exceptional emotional and financial drain, and so you'll hopefully give consideration to avoiding the kind of confrontation in which it becomes necessary to draw your weapon.
Dry fire: Dry fire is the practice of firing an unloaded weapon in order to maintain and improve shooting skills while not on the range. It can also reveal handling errors which are masked by recoil. When dry firing, one must first ensure that the weapon is unloaded. It is best to unload the weapon, put the ammo in another room, and then check the weapon again. Even when dry-firing, it is important to follow the rules of gun safety; use a backstop (a stack of bound papers will work) and make certain that no one will cross the path of the gun; it only takes one time for a tragedy, so don't pass these precautions off as unnecessary.
Many shooters go out and burn up box after box of expensive ammo while barely gaining skill, or in some cases, reinforcing bad habits. Using dry fire can significantly reduce the amount of live ammo you must shoot in order to become proficient. Trigger technique, from start to release, can be examined in detail, and many exercises, like sight alignment, can be performed in dry-fire.
There is some concern that when dry-firing a weapon one can damage the firing pin when the pin hits something other than the intended primer. While in some of the cheaper .22 pistols dry-fire can damage the chamber wall, most guns have no problem with a moderate amount of dry-fire, and some actually require a dry shot as part of disassembly. Still, if the concern exists, fake rounds called "snap caps" can be inserted into the chamber, which will accept the energy of the firing pin, reducing the stress on the pin. If you do dry-fire frequently (or even if you don't) you should be in the habit of checking the firing pin, which is one of the components most likely to fail.
Trigger control: One of the most important aspects of hitting the target is trigger control. You'll notice, if you watch movies, how most actors tend to jerk their weapon every time they pull the trigger. While they always seem to hit their target (than ks to the magic of FX technicians), in real life such poor control would cause the bullet to fly off to the side, failing to hit the target and possibly hitting a bystander.
There are actually several aspects to trigger control; when to place the finger, how to place the finger, and the grip of the hand on the gun. These factors should work together so that when the trigger is pulled the sights remain on target throughout the action. There should be no jerking except the slight action of the hammer when the sear is released. You shouldn't aim the gun to compensate for poor trigger technique; this won't work anyway, as bad trigger technique isn't consistent enough to compensate for. Acquiring good technique may require a modicum of grip strength training, but it really depends much more on performing the action correctly and consistently than in the strength of the grip.
The most common mistake in gun handling that happens anytime an inexperienced person (like a action-movie lead) handles a firearm is that the person immediately placed their finger in the trigger guard, and frequently resting on the trigger. This is, of course, a major violation of Rule #3 and one that you should strive to avoid. When handling the weapon, learn to draw the weapon and place your finger along the frame, outside the trigger guard. The only time your finger should go inside the trigger guard is when you have aligned the sights on target, and the only time the finger should touch the trigger is as an immediate precursor to firing. Different experts have different suggestions about finger placement, but one of the best suggestions is to place the finger above the trigger, along the frame, slightly bent so that the finger only need drop down and sideways into the trigger guard. This should be one of your drills, both when dry-firing and range practice, to the point at which it becomes au tomatic. Many weapons have some kind of obtrusion on the frame--the Glock as the takedown lever, S&W revolvers have a frame screw, Beretta-type autos have an external disconnector--so use whatever tactile cue works for you, or place a glob of nail polish to create your own cue for finger placement.
The placement of the finger on the trigger is an issue of debate. Some people maintain that one should always place the pad of the finger (before the first joint) squarely upon the trigger, regardless of action type. While this may work for the large-pawed and those with great hand strength, many find it difficult to keep the sights on target while drawing the long action of a double action weapon. For those with small hands, some guns, particularly double-stack autoloading pistols, may be nearly impossible to manage with the finger in this position. For that reason many people use the first joint of the finger, which keeps the rest of the finger snugged up against the frame of the gun and tends to stabilize the action of drawing the pistol. This is a situation in which the best thing to do is the one that works for you; you aren't target shooting, the gun you'll be using is likely to have a trigger pull in excess of 6 lbs--quite possibly as much as 12 lbs--and one technique doesn't work for everyone.
The grip style is one of the most important and least mentioned factors in trigger technique. One need not strangle the gun in order to maintain a good grip, but a sloppy, weak grip will definitely contribute to bad technique and poor shooting. First of all, although you may use a two-handed grip, the non-shooting hand should only provide support or bracing for the shooting hand; the grip should be a function of the shooting hand alone. Some firearms have the front of the trigger guard "dished", in accordance with a grip technique that came into fashion a few years ago, in which one placed the index finger of the non-firing hand on the front of the trigger guard. This is an inadvisable technique; for one, it promotes dependency upon a two-handed grip, and for another, most shooters, particularly when tired or stressed, tend to use the finger to pull one way on the trigger guard, setting up a "dynamic tension" triangle in which the firing hand resists the pull. While this can result in a stable grip, it tends to fatigue the firing hand prematurely. An equally solid grip should be possible by judicious placement of the gripping fingers and support of the firing hand by the non-firing hand.
As previously mentioned, the placement of the firing finger is dependant upon the gun and the shooter, and while some small-pawed people may be effectively unable to use large guns, most people can handle just about any gun with the proper hand grip. The thumb may or may not be used to "lock down" the weapon and keep it from turning in the grip; in single action weapons this is optional; some professional instructors prefer a "thumb up" grip. On double actions, and particularly with revolvers, the thumb is generally held down to counteract torsion on the gun. The middle finger should also be used to counteract torsion. It should be locked down tightly AROUND the grip of the gun, with the third segment braced against the trigger pull. The last two fin gers, being the most distant from the pivot point (at the web of the hand) are in the best position to counteract the moment arm of the trigger forces--as such, these should be braced primarily to prevent fore and aft movement of the grip.
If you go to the range, and find that your shooting isn't as good as you think it ought be, you'll want to try a few minutes of dry-fire to make certain your trigger technique is correct. Concentrate on technique; in basic marksmanship, the release of th e sear should be a surprise.
Sight alignment: Sight alignment ought to be a pretty simple task; unfortunately, many people get it wrong. It isn't enough simply to put the sights on target; they need to stay there throughout the pull of the trigger. Most handgun sights are designed to be superimposed upon the target, and many have "three dot" markings so that the dots should be aligned. The dots (or the profile of the sight, if it is just a plain black sight) should be in line, neither above nor below. Ideally, one should have both eyes open, using the firing-side eye to target. However, some people have a problem called cross-dominance, in which the dominant eye is on the opposite side as the dominant hand. This makes it difficult to focus the sights in the normal manner. Ther e are two ways to combat this; either closing the dominant eye, so that the firing-side eye is the only targeting eye, or cock the head so that the dominant eye is in line with the sights and the firing-side eye can't see the sights. Either is an imperfect solution, but the only other alternative, retraining the eyes, is not a trivial feat.
When bringing the sights to bear, the front sight should precede the rear sight in vision, so that the front sight appears first, and then the rear sights come up and nestle the front sight. Target and IPSC shooters are often taught to follow the sights, but in a defensive situation you'll want to keep your eyes on the situation. Accordingly, you'll bring the sights in the line of vision, and once they are up you should focus on the front sight, complete the aligning process, and fire. This entire action should take a fraction of a second, and should be so automatic that there is no thought involved. Once the sights are on the target, you should endeavor to maintain them in the same location; if you find them wavering significantly, don't attempt to " take an average" and fire when they swing through the target point. Rather, work on your grip, or if you are fatigued, take a break. In a defensive situation, the adrenalin will make you jumpy anyway, so training in keeping the sights steady, even in ba sic marksmanship, goes a long way toward becoming an accurate shooter.
Stance: There are probably as many stances as there are firearms "experts", but the three basic, accepted stances are the isosceles stance, in which one stands with the legs as two members of a triangle, the Weaver stance, where the non-firing leg goes out in front, bent at the knee with two hands holding the gun, and the "New Technique" stance, in which the user stands face front, with the knees bend (like the horse stance in many forms of the martial arts), again with two hands. These stances are better seen than discussed, and each may have their place, but the Weaver seems to be the most popular.
While stance is important, in many defensive confrontations you may not have time to adopt a traditional stance. It is important to get into a stable position (the recoil probably won't knock you over but you'll be better able to hold your sights on target) regardless of the particular stance. This will be discussed later.
Use targets: Knocking cans around the range can be fun, and for certain exercises can even be instructive, but for learning basic marksmanship it is nearly useless. You should start with paper targets; the holes show where you are hitting, which will help you identify your mistakes. A target can be used for several times by using "pasties", stickers, or even just a marking pen to identify previous holes. The silhouette targets are very popular, but for basic marksmanship aren't really necessary; the first thing you need to learn is to place the bullet on target. You need not even use standard targets; with a printer you can make your own, or you can paste stickers onto a piece of paper, or any set up which creates a point of aim from which to measure your deviation. (Barney stickers are a particular favorite of many shooters, as are the PostScript Barney targets available at certain Web sites.)
Using a paper target requires a stand. While you can nail a target to a tree, this isn't a very good ideal; some hardwoods are actually hard enough to ricochet a bullet back to you, and of course, it damages the tree. There are portable stands one can b uy, but any decent handyman should be able to knock up a reasonably portable target stand from scrap lumber. Large cardboard boxes also make good disposable stands, particularly if one is placed on top of another.
Target shooting is generally done around 25 yards with a pistol; however, most defensive shootings occur at dramatically less distance. If you are training only for defensive shooting, the best advice is to select the longest distance you intend to fire (for instance, if you are a homeowner or a business owner, select the longest straight-line distance in your house or business) and work up to it, starting from around 7 yards. The accuracy you will get is a function not only of your skill, but of distan ce and the intrinsic accuracy of the gun and ammo as well. The "group size" (the distance between the two most distant hits) will vary from gun to gun and ammo to ammo, but if you can place a group at point-of-aim which you can cover with your hand, you are doing pretty well (for that distance). In any case, 25 yards is about the maximum training distance for a handgun; although accuracy at greater ranges can be attained by experienced shooters, this is about the best anyone can be expected to do under fire, and if you can place your shots well at this distance you are well prepared, in terms of accuracy skill, for a defensive shooting.
One final note: When you are done practicing, clean up your mess. Pick up your brass (even .22s), clean up any cans or food wrapping and take it all with you. Don't leave a mess and please don't shoot glass. Many public ranges have been closed due to vandalism or just plain carelessness on the part of a minority of shooters. Don't spoil the fun for everybody; leave the place as clean as you found it, if not cleaner.
Tube Training: The term "tube training" refers to gun handling information learned from watching movies and television. You have probably already noticed a certain animosity in this document toward such techniques. Let me go so far as to say that virtually anything you see on the movies or the televison about handling, using, or firing a weapon is incorrect, if not actually dangerous. Such tube training is better used as a lesson on what *not* to do when handling a firearm. This includes shows like "COPS" which often show police officers handling their weapons in incorrect and unsafe ways. Even actors who are noted for their real-life knowledge of firearms handling often handle firearms improperly on screen, presumably at the behest of gun-ignorantd irectors.
In a real defensive situation you don't blast away with reckless abandon. Unlike the movies, the bullets don't just disappear if they fail to hit the criminals. They can hit innocent people, and even if they do hit an attacker they may pass through him, posing a danger to those on the far side, a situation known as overpenetration. You can be held liable for this, both in civil and criminal court. Also, in the movies, the good guy's gun can often fire as many shots as needed without running dry at an inopportune moment. You don't have the luxury of multiple takes, so pay attention to reality. In the movies, the bad guys all fall immediately from a flurry of martial arts blows and a hail of gunfire, while the hero, if he does manage to get shot, take s a "flesh would", and in macho fashion usually denies needing medical treatment. In reality, criminals may not go down on the first shot, or the fifth, and you can easily be injured. Nobody is going to yell "Cut!" if you screw up, so learn real-life tactics.
Two particularly bad demonstrations of "tube training" are in the loading of weapons. Actors are often shown loading a revolver and then flipping the cylinder shut, which is not only bad technique but also may damage the gun by bending the ejector rod and the crane. The cylinder should be eased, quickly but gently, back into position by the non-firing hand. Similarly, with semi-automatic weapons, actors are shown placing a round in the chamber and releasing the slide. This, too, is improper and may lead to a breakage of the ejector, or in some cases, premature detonation of the round as the firing pin extends outside its tunnel when the slide falters and the ejector strikes the rim of the casing. When loading a semi-automatic handgun, rounds should only be fed from the magazine. If you want to load the gun to full capacity, a full magazine should be inserted, a round chambered, and then the magazine removed, topped off, and replaced.
Are these schools worth the cost? It depends; obviously, most defensive shooters don't go to these schools, and many perform adequately without such training. On the other hand, these schools with re-enforce good technique and will permit a shooter to train under more realistic situations than he might otherwise be able to set up. Those who have an interest in shooting may certainly find them worth their while, and any edge is an advantage, but attending one of these classes isn't an absolute necessity, if one reads the literature on defensive shooting and trains regularly, one can probably reach roughly the same level of competence, though perhaps at greater eventual expense and time.
First of all, again you'll want to train under somewhat realistic circumstances. Getting involved in "practical" shooting might seem like a good way to pick up skills, however, while the original intent of so-called "practical" shooting was to emphasize and investigate real-world techniques, practical shooting has become a sport, involving the use of extremely specialized, non-defensive weapons, and tactics that are inadvisable at best. Most tactical shooting course have the shooter firing at ten or mor e targets, requiring high magazine capacity. Most occur at ranges between 20 and 50 feet, in bright daylight, with easily identified targets. The targets don't usually weave or dodge, and the never, ever, shoot back, nor is the shooter generally encouraged to seek cover before firing.
In a real defensive encounter, you will probably be accosted at close range, often in the dark, and otherwise in circumstances that you would not have chosen. Your attackers will probably be within 7 yards, and quite possibly within touching distance. You may or may not have the opportunity to seek cover, but your first instinct ought to be to look for cover while drawing your weapon, rather than plunking down into a stance out in the open.
You don't want targets shooting back, of course, but you might imagine that they are. For instance, you might want to simulate taking cover, giving yourself a time limit in which to hit the target, and if you don't make it under the limit, YOU "got hit". Learn to use barricades and other forms of cover and concealment. When using a barricade, it is usually best to stay a little back from the barricade rather than snugging up to it, so as to be able to take full cover more quickly. You might set up "enemy" and "friendly" targets, and try to only hit the "enemy" targets. You'll also want to practice drawing and firing from sitting, lying, and prone positions; you may have to defend yourself from a carjacker, or someone who breaks into your hotel room while you are sleeping. Try to practice for any situation in which you might find yourself. The best way to practice is to set up drills; keep running through these drills, and if necessary, record your performance to see how well you are doing and what you need to concentrate on. Many drills can be done at home, with dry-fire.
You'll want to pay particular attention to drawing from your holster, or from however you carry your weapon. People often flub the draw by grabbing clothing, or gripping the gun improperly, particularly when under stress. Practicing your draw should be another drill, and it should be one smooth motion, from holster to aim. If you wear a jacket, the non-firing hand may be used to sweep clothing out of the way. While you are at it, you might try drawing with the non-firing hand; you may find yourself in a situation in which your strong hand is injured, forcing you to shoot with the weak hand. You need to learn to draw and fire with the weak hand as well as the normal shooting hand. Because you are learning by "muscle memory" it is important to keep the gun in the same place; don't change carry methods or the placement of a home defense gun frequently, and if you do, spend some time re-training your instincts.
Another drill, besides drawing and aiming, is clearing a malfunction. On a revolver this is either trivial or impossible; either the bullet doesn't fire, you pull the trigger and advance to the next chamber, or the mechanism fails, rendering the gun useless until it is taken to the gunsmith. With an autoloader, however, failures can occur due to bad ammo, loose grip, or just a happenstance, like clothing being caught in the ejection port. You should learn to clear these failures automatically, using the "tap-rack-bang" drill; that is, when a failure occurs in which the ejection port is closed, you should tap the bottom of the magazine with the heel of the hand, rack the slide, and pull the trigger. If the ejection port is open, either with a "stovepipe" jam in which a spent cartridge gets caught in the port, an "ejection failure" in which the spend cartridge remains in the chamber, or a "twin feed" in which the magazine attempts to feed two bullets at once, causing a jam, the slide should be locked ba ck, the magazine partially removed, the offending cartridge or loaded round removed either by plucking it out, or if loose, turning the gun upside down and shaking the offending mass out, tapping the magazine back into place and racking the slide if necessary. These drills should become nearly automatic. Of course, if you have a "backup" weapon, you'll want to draw it first rather than mess with clearing a jam, but if not, you need to take cover and clear the malfunction immediately.
One category of techniques that are popular with many of the would-be combat shooting "experts" are "flashlight positions". Like stances, there are as many out there as there are "experts" and each proponent seems to have his own favored position named a fter him. While a flashlight can be a useful thing in a defensive situation, it's a bad idea to stand behind a flashlight, making a beautiful center-of-mass target. It is better to wait in the shadows and cultivate night vision rather than give away any degree of tactical surprise, particularly if you know that your opponent is armed with a firearm. Furthermore, these positions preclude the use of a more stable, two-handed grip. Unless you are a member of a SWAT team or really want to look cool at expe nse to your safety, you can ignore these tactics.
First off all, point shooting is NOT "spray-and-pray", unaimed shooting. It is, rather, a technique by which one aims the gun through hand-eye coordination. This is not unlike the way an experienced driver can drive a car without constant visual indexing of the car against the sidelines. Of course, when one goes through a narrow aperture or around an unfamiliar curve, one might resort to a frequent visual index to assure that the car stays on the road. The same is true with point shooting; with a fire arm with which the shooter is familiar, at close range, it can be relatively accurate, but with an unfamiliar firearm or at a larger distance, such fire might not be considered "aimed" at all. It is without a doubt that in terms of accuracy and shot placement alone, visually indexed fire is superior to point shooting, and no experienced shooter would claim to be a better shot by point shooting than by visual aiming. Why, then, would one resort to point shooting?
While in accuracy terms point shooting may be an inferior technique, there are tactical concerns which might make aimed fire disadvantageous. For instance, an attacker might be upon you before you can fire your weapon. In such a case, were your weapon a lready drawn but unaimed, you would not wish to bring the weapon up to eye level and extended out to arm's length, exposing it to a grapple. In such a situation you would prefer to keep the weapon low and close to the body where an attacker will have less chance of taking, or possibly even seeing the weapon. Another case might be a situation in which you fire from a non-standing position; for instance, let us imagine hypothetically, that you are the target of a "bump and jack" car-jacking. By the time you regain your wits, your attacker might already be at your door, having broken or preparing to break the window. Your best option is to hit the gas, but if a car or other obstruction is in front of you that option may not be available, and your next op tion is to use your firearm. Will you turn fully and extend the gun at eye level, or will you simply point the gun in the direction of theattacker (who is, in this scenario a few feet away, at most) and fire? A third reason you might use point fire is that the background lighting may be insufficient to permit you to align the sights. While this is an argument for luminescent sights, the possibility still exists that you may be able to identify a silhouette as an aggressor but have insufficient light to see the sights. In such a situation a defender might spend several seconds trying to align sights while an opponent has the opportunity to fire or charge.
Opponents of point fire argue that these cases are irrelevant, that no trained fighter should allow a potential attacker to get this close before drawing a weapon. While this may be true, the truth is also that this can happen; you might be tired, or for some reason unobservant, and even if you are following tactical procedures fully you can still be the target of an unavoidable maneuver. "Experts" who argue that this CAN'T happen are denying the fact that it does happen, and fail to recognize that on t he street, unlike the range or the dojo, such things can happen to the best of fighters, not to mention the average Joe, and such a claim is parallel to the sensei who fails to teach falling technique on the grounds that his students shouldn't ever have to fall. There are no guarantees in a fight. Don't bet that someone can't do it; be prepared for it.
That being said, point shooting is no replacement for aimed fire. As previously stated, when tactically possible, aimed fire is always preferable. Point shooting is a supplemental technique, to be used when aiming visually would take too long or would expose the weapon to a snatch attempt.
The maximum range of point shooting depends upon the shooter, but few people can reliably hit a target beyond 30 feet with point shooting. Thankfully, this is probably the longest distance one would ever wish to fire without aiming; at 30 feet it takes a fast man around 2 seconds to reach the shooter, by which time a shooter can fire four or five rounds. Since the vast majority of shootings take place at less than 30 feet--in fact, many occur at touching or "melee" range--point shooting becomes a very valid technique.
In point shooting the gun should stay close to the body. There are several forms of point shooting; one which is popular is the "rock-and- lock" style in which the gun is head by the ribcage, facing the same direction as the shooter. Another form is to keep the forearm of the shooting hand at the same level as the floating ribs, moving the torso as necessary. My personal variation on this is to put the nonshooting arm above the gun to thwart snatch attempts and deflect brass that may fly up into the face. If this is done, it is important to keep the arm out of the line of fire; I place my hand at chest level, straight across, with the elbow pointing forward. Whatever form you select, based upon what feels most comfortable to you, be certain to keep the nonfiring arm out of the way; with the gun so close, and particularly when trying to stop a snatch, it is easy to let the arm cross the path of the barrel, so train against that instinct. It is important to be consistent when point shooting; after all, you are doing this all by hand-eye coordination, so keeping the stance and hold the same is very important in order to develop consistent accuracy. Train for a variety of positions in which you would have to use point shooting. For instance, you might be sitting, or standing but turned to the side, and so forth.
When training for point shooting, start close, with the target at 10 feet or less. When point shooting, include drawing from holster as part of the drill (and be careful to obey Rule #3.) Once you've mastered shooting at that range, move the target out a nother 5 feet, and repeat. You will probably be surprised at how fast range can deteriorate accuracy; there will come a point at which you simply can't hit the main torso area of the target (if you are using a silhouette target) accurately. For most people, this is somewhere between 15 to 30 feet. This is the maximum range at which you should consider point shooting.
Point shooting requires constant training, just as does visually aimed fire, but with point shooting this is imperative; the only way you have to determine where the bullet is going is how your body "knows" the proper position. If you select a new weapon, you'll also have to practice with it, going through the whole routine, as it is likely to throw off your sense of aim. As with any psychomotor skill, you must exercise it in