X. Miscellaneous

K. Gunsmithing Information

2. Feed Ramp Polish: Instructions and Results

Turbinator (turbinator@deja.com)


REVIEW: ACE LTD Replacement Stock set for AK Sporters, $155 at a gun show
Ace Ltd, (530) 346-2492, Chicago Park, CA.. Pacific time zone

Hi Folks!  Just went to a show last weekend (Aug 28-29th), scrounging
for a couple of odds-and-ends.  Well, you know how it goes, you
stumble across something that is just too cool for words..  Lo and
behold, set up in a small both, I ran across Bob of Ace Ltd., from
Chicago Park, CA.  I had seen his ads nuemrous times in SGN but was
hesitant to order anything because I had heard from others that some
parts kits are worth the money and some aren't.  Fortunately, I was
able to check these kits out firsthand for myself..

OVERVIEW:
The quality of the kit is very impressive.  The stock is a skeleton
stock, with the cosmetic appearance of being foldable (mine isn't,
it's on a post-ban rifle).  There are preban folding stocks available
for those who would like to replace their current folding stocks
with something else.  The buttstock is sturdy and, in my opinion,
of very high quality. The handguards are molded plastic of some kind,
very easy to work with and file down should your kit require hand
fitting.  There were a variety of pistol grips and handguards to
choose from, each being originally from a different country of origin.
Of course, those available from Ace Ltd are USA made, for the purpose
of complying with the laws.

For internals, I bought a US made hammer (double arm), trigger, and
disconnector. This brought the total of my US made parts to 6 (see
the legal reference below).

I stood there and chatted with the guy for a bit, he was very helpful
and gave some verbal tips and tricks for getting the kit installed.

INSTALLATION:
Installation might seem daunting for the uninitiated.  I consider
myself an amateur enthusiast.  I reload and have worked on my own
pieces in the past, so I felt up for a little bit of home-smithing
work.  If you are not mechanically inclined, you may wish to stop
here and find someone who might be able to help you get your kit
installed.  Read through before you begin to get a "birds-eye" view
of the project.

1) Remove the old buttstock.  The wooden butthole thumbstock on my
Romak 991 was very well wedged in the recevier of my rifle.  Removing
it proved to be a pain, at least initially.  I had unscrewed the two
retaining screws and pounded on the stock with a rubber mallet, but
to no avail.  I made a tough decision right then and there - that
ugly wooden stock was going to meet my hacksaw.  Got the saw and
sawed off as much of the stock as I could.  Then, I introduced Mr.
Electric Drill to the scene and drilled out the rest of the wood until
it dislodged from the receiver and came out with some coaxing by my
nearby set of pliers.  I promptly threw the wood scraps away.  Too
bad, it was pretty solid nice wood.

2) Install new buttstock.  Some light tapping with a hammer got the
new buttstock seated properly.  Installed screws.  Nice tight fit,
no wobble whatsoever.  Looked very nice.

3) Install USA made pistol grip.  The Romak 991's receiver hole to
accomodate the pistol grip block nut isn't big enough.  I had to
shave down the block nut a bit to get it to fit into the square hole.
When you do yours, if you have the same rifle I do, you'll see.  My
pistol grip screw and nut were made in China, so if you have Euro
grip hardware this might not be a problem.  I chose the Bulgarian
pistol grip style.  Also available was a FAL style grip, an AR type
grip, and another Combloc country grip which I do not recall at this
moment.

4) Install forward hardguards.  Remove the upper handguard/gas tube.
The lower handguard is simple to remove; lift up the very small tiny
latch that is located next to the barrel/lower handguard.  The metal
retaining piece that keeps the handguard in place should slip forward
allowing you to wedge the old grip out of there.  Eyeball the fitting
of the new handguard.  You may need to carefully file off some material
(as I did) to get the new guard to fit.  Do not overdo it as you want
your new handguards to fit snugly, with no rattle.  File some off
and then test fit, then file some more off.  Repeat until the grip
fits nicely.  Again, do not file too much and take your time.

The upper handguard is a little more of a challenge.  I had to
break the wood off of my piece, you may not feel inclined to do the
same.. so, what you would need to do is mount the gas tube block
in a vice (there are a couple of flat spots near the back of the tube
where this could safely be done).  Then, using a gloved hand (glove
is important.. gives you better gripping ability and protects your
hand from getting hurt) you can twist off the old handguard wood.
Note:  this was very difficult for me.  Nearly impossible.. that's
why I chose to break the wood off.    Installation of the new plastic
is accomplished in the same twisting manner as removal.  Keeping your
gas tube in the vice, and wearing your gloves, try to fit the upper
guard plastic onto the tube using the same half-circle twisting
motion.  Be patient, use some oil if you have to, and file some
excess plastic away if needed.  Be sure not to file too much off
as again, you want a snug fit here, not a rattletrap.  Be patient
and don't overdo it too much, but getting that handguard on requires
a little bit of brute force.

5) Remove your old internals.  Before hacking into your receiver,
study the positioning of the wire-wound spring and pin retaining
spring before you remove anything.  I started by first removing
the hammer pin, then the pin retaining spring (looks like an
unfolded paper clip with a hook on one end), then the trigger
and disconnecter, then the hammer retaining pin, and then finally
the hammer and wire-wound spring.  Be sure not to lose the small
disconnector spring in the process, and be gentle in getting
the hammer/spring out of there.  Try not to mess up the spring
tension.  Note, when removing the first pin, be sure to depress the
pin retaining spring with an object (say, a flat blade screwdriver)
to allow easy removal of the pin.

6) Install new internals.  This may require some metal fitting.
Be prepared with fine sandpaper for any surface polishing.  You
may want to use emory cloth or something similar for polishing
up the hammer/trigger arm engagement surfaces, for a better
trigger pull.  I decided that since I wasn't building a match
rifle, I'd leave those surfaces alone -- but you may feel differently.

Notice in the parts list above that I spec'ed that I purchased a
double arm trigger, to replace my single arm trigger.  To install
the new trigger, the rifle receiver needs to be modified slightly.
Simply make a new cutout to accomodate the arm in the receiver,
mirror image to where the single trigger arm fits into the receiver.
I accomplished this by simply drilling a hole there, and using a
needle file to smooth out the metal.  You may wish to approach
this in a different way, but using a drill worked well for me.  Be
sure to clean out the metal fragments from your receiver. :)

You may now continue by installing your new hammer.  Work the new
hammer into the spring assembly and carefully place that back into
the receiver.  Put the hammer pin back in and then hook the pin
retainer back into place.  Fit your new trigger into its place.
To install the disconnector, I turned the rifle sideways, stuck
the disconnector spring into the disconnector, then slide the
piece into the trigger.  Make sure the little spring lines up with
the proper detent in the trigger.  Then, I placed the trigger
retaining pin back into the receiver, but only enough to hold the
trigger and disconnector into place while I massaged the wire-wound
spring arms back onto the trigger fingers (the spring tension allows
the trigger to pivot back to the normal resting position).  Once that
is done, you may finish installing the trigger retaining pin.
However, note that you must get the pin retaining spring to fit
over the ridge on the pin - depress the spring with an object (say,
a flat head screwdriver) while you drive the pin inward.  The AK
sporter pins are relatively easy-going.  You should be able to push
them in with your fingers (at least, I could).

Finally, check function.  The safety should work as normal, the
disconnector should retain the hammer during the cycling of the
bolt, etc.  Be sure the parts function well together.  I had to
shave some metal of my hammer, otherwise it would stop the bolt
from traveling forward.

7) Congratulations, you are done!  As my own opinion and commentary,
the Ace LTD stock set and parts kit I bought is an excellent buy.  For
the price I paid and the results I received, my money was very well
spent.  I can't guarantee that you'll get the same price that I did,
but I would say anywhere from $150-$190 is the ballpark for what
you should be paying for your kit.  At first, I thought that the
rifle would look silly with a skeleton stock.  However, after I
installed everything, I must admit that it looks great and has a
good feel to it.  The all-black furniture really dresses up the look
of the rifle and keeps the (non-existent) ergonomic feel close to
that of the origial AK.

Here is a listing of the "10 or less" rule, taken from a poster
on www.ak-47.net --- for your reference only.  I am not a lawyer.

A rifle assembled or configured to have 10 or less of the imported parts
listed in sec.178.39(c)is not subject to the provisionsof sec.922(r),
total imported banned parts must be less than 10.
Imported parts from sec.178.39(C) are as follows:

1.)Receivers *
2.)Barrels
3.)Barrel extensions(n/a: ak)
4.)Mounting Blocks(trunnions)
5.)Muzzle attachments(n/a: ak unless welded)*
6.)Bolts
7.)Bolt carrier
8.)Operating rods (n/a: ak)
9.)Gas piston *
10.)Trigger housings(n/a: ak)
11.) Triggers *
12.)Hammers *
13.)Sears (n/a: ak)
14.)Disconnectors *
15.)Buttstocks *
16.)Pistol grips *
17.)Forearms/handguards(counted as 1 item) *
18.)Magazine bodies
19.)Followers *
20.)Floorplates *

-All items marked with ( * ) can be purchased from Hesse Arms or other US
parts distributers such as Ace, Soupbowl etc.
-All items marked ( n/a ) do not count as parts of AK's.
-As long as you have 10 or less of the parts that do count for AK's in
import form, you're O.K.

Thanks for reading, folks - enjoy, be careful out there, and support
our 2nd Amendment.  I am getting zero compensation for this review.
I am just a satisfied customer!

Turbinator